Winter climbing Elbrus, Caucasus (Russia). Climbing Elbrus. Make a mountain in winter! Features of winter climbing Elbrus

Let's start with the result: you can go to Elbrus in winter. But you need to take into account the state of the route, the weather forecast, the state of the participants.

I had 4 clients: Zhenya, Vladimir, Ruslan, Igor. For each of them it was the first attempt to reach the summit. Previously, they are higher than 2-3 thousand m. did not go up at all. And they dealt with mountains only insofar as they skied and snowboarded.

The group is inexperienced and new, we first met in the Elbrus region in order to get to know each other better in 8 days, acclimatize and still try to climb Elbrus. We acclimatized in the format familiar to the children - in the form of skiing and snowboarding at altitudes of 3000-3600 m.

Plus, we climbed up to the Pastukhov rocks (4600 m) once. We rode for three days, got used to it.

Then the ascent immediately to Shelter 11 (4130), where we spent three nights for acclimatization and waiting for the weather. Walked to the rocks, worked out on the ice.

According to the tactical plan, the ascent was supposed to take place on the night of December 31 to January 1 - I wanted to spend an unusual new year's eve and at the same time be the first to climb to the top this year. Forecast promised good weather on this day, but then shifted by a day.

31 at 10 pm we started to meet New Year, because somewhere it has already come :) By the way, anticipating the train of thought after this phrase, I note that the ascent was very sober. The younger generation does not recognize abuses, as it turned out :) We honestly tried to climb, but there was no visibility, the wind was 50-60 km/h. Not flying weather turned out to be on New Year's Eve.

And the next day came the same promised good weather. We planned to leave at 3 am, and it happened. The weather is really perfect.

We climbed the saddle, it seemed that nothing would stop us, but ... Then a surprise was discovered. It turned out that one of the participants, Volodya, had an iron leg. These are the surprises that can lie in wait in a situation of "acquaintance at the foot" :)

Volodya could not go further, his strength ran out, and his leg began to hurt. We had no option to continue the ascent for the rest of the participants. I am the only guide in the group, so it was decided in advance to go only together.

The rest could have climbed, but leaving Volodya alone on the saddle in winter was out of the question. They turned everything, and it was not possible to climb to the top. Of course, it's a pity, they were close ...

And in conclusion, a few more words about the excitement around climbing Elbrus. I repeat, you can go to Elbrus. And in winter you can. And with beginners - you can. Another thing is that you need to do this, not for a second forgetting all the same three factors: the state of the route, the state of the participants, the weather forecast. Everything. And of course, no disregard for the rules. On the traverse, the guy’s ice ax flew off, I forbade even taking a step to the side of it - because I remember how this slope below the path looks without snow ...

Route thread

G. Mineral water- settlement Terskol (2200 m) - c. Cheget (3465 m) - settlement. Terskol (2200 m) - Garabashi-2 shelter (3830 m) - Diesel-hut shelter (Shelter 11) (4050 m) - c. Elbrus Western (5642 m) - pos. Terskol (2200 m) - Mineralnye Vody.

The tour price includes

All group transfers according to the program. Depending on the number of people in the group car or minibus.
Hotel accommodation (4 nights)
Accommodation in a mountain shelter (3 nights)
Two meals a day, lunch package upon check-in at the hotel
Payment for cable cars in accordance with the program during acclimatization exits and during the ascent / descent to the mountain shelter
3 meals a day when staying at a mountain shelter
Rental of public equipment and kitchen
Qualified guide
Cooking services on the mountain
Additional guide for the period of ascent (for a group of 4 people)
Climbing permit (being in a national park)

The tour price does not include

Flight to Mineralnye Vody and back
Climbing insurance
Rental of personal climbing equipment
Individual guide for the ascent
Snowcat to the rocks "Pastukhov" (400-600-1000 euros per snowcat)
Payment for the hotel in case of an earlier descent
Single occupancy
Payment for cable cars not included in the program

Required documents

A valid passport is required for Russian citizens during the program.
For booking - a copy of the Russian passport.

Safety

This program is potentially dangerous to the health and life of any of the participants.
Guides will provide you with the necessary security, provided that you comply with the Safety Rules.
The guide has a walkie-talkie, GPS (satellite navigation device), mobile phone, necessary group equipment.
The decision to stop climbing in conditions that threaten the safety of participants is in the exclusive competence of the guide accompanying the group on the route, and is not subject to discussion.
The guide is obliged to take measures to ensure the safety of the group on all types of mountainous terrain.
Availability of insurance against an accident when practicing extreme sports is mandatory for each participant of the program.

Additional Information

At any exit, the guide always has a radio station and a satellite phone with him. This set allows you to get in touch anywhere and anytime. mobile connection ends in the village of Khurzuk. You can use the satellite connection for an additional fee. The hotels have WI-FI Internet access.

Accommodation/Hotels

Our base hotels: "Ozone", "Povorot", "Chyran". These are modern comfortable hotels with all the necessary infrastructure and comfortable rooms, polite and helpful staff.
At the high mountain shelters, the atmosphere is more spartan. The shelters are equipped with sleeping places and a kitchen, a toilet on the street. From furniture - beds with mattresses, blankets and pillows, a table, there is an electric heater. The temperature is up to +18 C, it is colder near the floor (+5C), you will have to spend the night in a sleeping bag.

Tour program

Our representative will meet you at the Mineralnye Vody airport and take you to the hotel on the ordered transport.
The next four days are aimed at getting you optimal acclimatization for the upcoming ascent of Elbrus.
The training program (acclimatization) includes climbing the slopes of Mount Cheget (3452m), from where, in good weather, a beautiful view of Elbrus, Donguz-Orun, Nakra and many other most beautiful peaks of the region opens up, climbing to a height of 4055 m to the former Shelter 11 and climbing the rocks Pastukhov (4700 m). On the 6-7th day, the ascent is planned, which usually takes 9-14 hours along with the descent.

Description of the route of climbing Elbrus from the South 2a grade, snow-ice.

Barrels (3720 m) - Shelter (4055 m) - 1.5 hours. Movement on snow and ice fields. There may be cracks in the plateau area before takeoff to Shelter 11. Carefully!
Shelter (4055 m) - Pastukhov rocks (4700 m) - 2-3 hours. The climb goes between two rocky ridges (4370 m), then a snow-ice take-off (15-20 degrees, 50 m) with access to a plateau under the Pastukhov rocks. The ascent to the "Pastukhov Rocks" goes along a closed glacier (20°). There are no cracks here. On the plateau approach under the lower stones of the Pastukhov rocks (5 degrees, in the summertime a rockfall is possible during the day). Then climb to the upper part of the Pastukhov rocks along the snow-ice slope with a steepness of -15-20°.
Pastukhov Rocks (4700 m) - "Kosaya" (5000 m) - 1-1.5 hours. Snow-ice takeoff 500-600 m with a steepness of 15-20 °. Climbing straight up, bypassing the ice bends (but you can’t go far to the left, so as not to be above the discharges into the southern glacial cirque) and turning left, we exit to the “oblique” (5000 m).
"Slanting" (5000 m) - "Motorcycle couloir" (5340 m) - 2-2.5 hours. Sufficiently gentle traverse with a smooth climb. The steepness of the slope on an inclined traverse is 15°, in some places - up to 25°.
"Motorcycle couloir" (5340 m) - saddle (5340 m) - 20 minutes - 30 minutes. Going around the bottom of the foot of the Eastern peak (400-500 m), in this area one can feel the smell of sulfur dioxide coming from the fumaroles on the southern slope. With an unfavorable wind, this is a serious hindrance for climbers. Traverse to the saddle, move carefully along the path, because. there may be cracks. To the left, under the slopes of the western peak at the beginning of the snow trough, there is the frame of an old destroyed hut; opposite it, under the slopes of the eastern peak, a new hut was built, designed exclusively to rescue people who fell into difficult extreme weather conditions during the ascent (the construction of the hut was completed in August 2010) .
Saddle (5340 m) - access to the Summit Plateau (5550 m) - 1-1.5 hours. At 50 m from the hut, turn right and climb a fairly steep snowy slope (30-35°) to a rocky ridge. There may be an ice area in front of the ridge. In this place, movement along the railing is possible.
The summit plateau (5610 m) is the peak of Elbrus West (5642 m). From here we climb up to the left to the summit plateau. On a 400-meter flat section we reach the low dome of the summit (40 minutes - 1 hour).
The summit of Elbrus West is a small snow-ice rise with a steepness of 15 ° with a stone pedestal at the top.
Descent along the ascent path.

Due to the fact that in the winter season the slopes of Elbrus are higher than the Pastukhov rocks, as a rule, they are a huge ice mirror with a length of more than 500 meters, so moving along them requires some climbing training. Hence the recommendation for independent tourists who want to make a winter ascent of Elbrus: to have initial tourist or mountaineering training and experience in moving along the ice terrain in crampons, to have a rope and ice screws with them and to master the skills of their use. At the same time, give yourself a full account of the task set before you. It often happens that people come to Elbrus in winter without the necessary preparation. In such a situation, we strongly recommend that you take an individual climbing guide from a trusted company (AlpIndustriya), who will take care of your safety on the ascent.

Attention! When the weather worsens, it is very difficult to navigate the long smooth slopes of Elbrus! When a cloud-lens or cloudiness appears above Ushba and Donguz-Orun, the ascent must be postponed or stopped. It can take no more than 3 hours from the first signs of bad weather to the complete loss of visibility.

Transport

Depending on the number of people in the group, the following transport is used:
Comfortable cars or minibuses for 10 - 15 seats (Volkswagen, Mercedes-Benz, etc.).
Important! The paid transfer "airport - hotel - airport" is carried out only as part of a group once on the day of arrival and once on the day of departure.
At your request, for an additional fee, we can order an individual transfer by car.
Cable cars are used to climb the mountain shelter, and a snowcat can be used to climb the Pastukhov rocks.

Estimated additional costs

Flight Moscow - Mineralnye Vody - Moscow.
In case of early descent from the mountain shelter earlier than the period stipulated by the program - hotel accommodation.
Money for shelters booked in advance in accordance with the tour program is not refundable. Please treat these conditions with understanding. In the high season, there are not enough places for everyone in the shelters, so we book places in advance, taking into account the necessary reserve days.
local souvenirs.
Self-catering in the valley (average price for lunch/dinner - from 500 rubles per person). There are many cafes and restaurants in the valley, mainly Caucasian cuisine.
Ascent on a snowcat on the day of climbing to the Pastukhov rocks 400-600-1000 euros per snowcat (group up to 10 people).
Excursion ticket to KKD Cheget 1000 rubles per person. and MKD Azau 1450 rubles / person.

Terms of payment

Pre-payment is required to ensure the successful and safe running of the program. Prepayment for booking is 20,000 rubles. Full payment is due at least 30 days before the start of the program.
In case of cancellation of the program, the refund is made in full, minus the actual expenses incurred in accordance with the Federal Law "On Protection of Consumer Rights" dated 07.02.1992 FZ N 2300-1.

Winter climbing Elbrus is a severe test for everyone who sets such a goal. Low temperatures, squally winds, icy slopes make the top of Elbrus almost impregnable in winter. And yet, people climb Elbrus in winter.
What for?
Some - in order to acclimatize before more high mountains, for example, Aconcagua, or prepare to climb Everest. Others - to see the winter Elbrus, feel the indomitable power of the elements, at the same time go skiing or snowboarding and relax your soul. To enjoy an attempt to climb Elbrus in winter, you need to understand that the chances of reaching the top much less than in summer. This is the case when people go to the mountains not for the sake of the result, but for the sake of the process itself. We focus on just such people and organize a sincere, unforgettable, and most importantly - a safe trip to Elbrus for the New Year!

AT New Year holidays 2019/2020 we offer a winter 9-day climb to Elbrus from the south side -

30.12 - 07.01 (9 days) - price 59500,0* rubles, including 3 meals a day on all days of the tour. New Year - your choice: either in the Cheget glade, or in a modern comfortable high-altitude shelter "The Heart of Elbrus" for 100 people with its own cafe in the shelter building.

Attention! Thanks to the comfort, spaciousness and convenient location of the "Heart of Elbrus" shelter (located next to the top station of the Gara-Bashi cable car, you can invite your friends and relatives with you not only to the New Year celebration, but also for all days of the tour: while you get ready to climb - they might to ski(a rare pleasure to go down the freshly fallen snow while the cable car has not yet lifted skiers and snowboarders from the valley), learn to do it with our instructor, enjoy tasting local national cuisine(be sure to try khychiny and zhau-baur) or go down the cable car both for forest walks and for participation in one of the excursions to the sights of Kabardino-Balkaria (the hit of the season is the Geduko hot mineral baths near the town of Baksan).

For those who arrived in Terskol / Azau / Cheget on their own, have already spent several days on the slopes of Elbrus, are "used" to the height of 3800 meters and want to join the groups directly from the days of active acclimatization, we offer a shortened 7-day climbing program:

01.01 - 07.01 (7 days)- price 49500,0 rubles, including accommodation and meals in a mountain shelter, guide services, use of public equipment.

* - when booking New Year tours before June 1 - a discount of 5% of the cost of the tour is provided

Requirements for participants:
- excellent physical shape and endurance,
- experience in climbing mountains with a height of at least 5000 meters,
- the ability to move in crampons on various ice terrain, confident possession of an ice ax,
- absence of cardiovascular diseases,
- psychological readiness for low (below - 30) temperatures and discomfort.

The program of the New Year's ascent to Elbrus from the south (9 days).

December 30th. Meeting of the group at the Mineralnye Vody airport at 14:30. Transfer to the hotel in the Baksan Gorge.

Dec. 31. Acclimatization hiking to Mount Cheget; after lunch, those who wish can go skiing or snowboarding there on their own. Overnight at the hotel.

1st of January. Ascent by cable car to the Gara-Bashi station (3800 m), then walk to the Shelter of the Eleven (4100 m) or higher, weather permitting. Those who wish can take skis or a snowboard with them and, after completing the acclimatization program, ride on the snowy slopes on their own. Overnight at the hotel. Today is the final day before climbing to the upper camp, and the guide will help you pick up the missing equipment at the rental.

January 2. Ascent with all equipment to the mountain shelter on the slope of Elbrus (3800 m). Things that will not be useful to you on the ascent can be left at the hotel. After accommodation in a mountain shelter, we will have tea and a light snack and continue acclimatization at an altitude of 4300-4500 m. Today the guide will conduct snow and ice lessons on the slope, where you will brush up your skills in walking in crampons on the ice slopes and moving in bundles. Overnight at the shelter.

January 3. Acclimatization climb to the Pastukhov rocks (4700-4800 m). The slope above 4200 m can be icy and the guide will fix the ropes for belaying. Overnight in a mountain shelter.

4 January. Rest day before climbing. Today you can ride all day or relax in a cafe.

5 January. Climb day. If the weather allows, then at 1 am the group goes on the route. Participants can decide to overcome part of the way to a height of 4200-4500 m on a snowcat, which is paid additionally; the exit time is postponed 1.5-2 hours later. The exit to the summit is before 13.00, from 14.00 all participants must already move only down. Overnight in a mountain shelter.

January 6. Reserve day for climbing. If on the previous day the weather did not allow to go on the route, then the group makes an attempt today. In this case, the participants go down to spend the night in a hotel.

January 7. Transfer to the airport by 9:30 am. If you wish, you can stay at the hotel for a vacation, we will reserve a place for you

The tour price includes:

Group transfer at 14:30 from Mineralnye Vody airport to the hotel on the day of arrival
- return transfer from the hotel to the airport by 9:30 am
- hotel accommodation in the Baksan Gorge (4 nights)
- accommodation in a mountain shelter (4 nights)
- 3 meals a day on all days of the tour
- transfers from the hotel to the Azau cable car station at the foot of Elbrus and back
- one guide for the whole program + guide assistants for the day of climbing at the rate of 1 guide for 2-3 participants
- security equipment: walkie-talkies, ropes, anchors, GPS-navigator
- climbing certificate

The tour price does not include:

Rental of personal equipment for climbing
- Lunches and dinners during the stay at the hotel
- tickets for cable cars
- visit fee national park"Prielbrusye"
- the cost of a ride on a snowcat on the day of ascent (from 5 thousand rubles, depends on the number of passengers and the height of the ascent)

Notes:

* The price includes one climbing attempt on one of two possible days (days 7 - 8). An attempt is considered to be the exit of the group together with the guides from the shelter no later than 03:00 and the ascent to a height of at least 4500 meters. If the attempt nevertheless took place and turned out to be unsuccessful for the whole group or individual participants (due to weather conditions or poor health), the attempt can be repeated on a reserve day, paying for accommodation in a mountain shelter and guide services. If the attempt was not used on the planned ascent day (due to bad weather), then the reserve day is used at no additional charge.

** We will make every effort to ensure that the ascent takes place, but we cannot guarantee success. If the ascent was hindered by the participant's lack of physical fitness or adverse weather conditions, the organization does not pay any compensation.

*** Staying in the mountains is potentially dangerous. Therefore, all orders and instructions of the guide are obligatory for all participants of the ascent. The decision to go on the route and return both the entire group and individual participants is made by the guide.

For several years now, every February, a team of our instructors has been going to ... to the winter Elbrus! And 2020 will be no exception! There are several places in the team and you can join us if you:

  1. Have you climbed Elbrus in the summer or have experience of climbing to heights of 5000+
  2. You have a good physical and moral preparation (you have extensive experience in mountain hiking). Otherwise, you can join us without setting yourself the goal of reaching the summit and limit yourself to stunning views from a high-altitude shelter, technical training, skiing or snowboarding. The winter ascent to Elbrus will take place along the southern route according to the "comfort" program - with accommodation in a hotel below and an alpine shelter above.
Route type Duration Route complexity Hiking dates in 2020
On foot. ascent 10 days Difficult. Requires a good
fitness and climbing experience of 5000+ heights
February 14-23

Elbrus winter climbing plan:

Day 1: We meet in front of the railway station of Pyatigorsk at the monument to Kirov at 10 am, the transfer takes us to Azau. We have lunch, check into a hotel, check and adjust equipment. If necessary, we go to rent. Clarification of goals and priorities.

Day 2: Acclimatization hike to Terskol peak (3127m). We check the equipment, change if necessary. We will have dinner and spend the night at a hotel in Terskol.

Day 3: Acclimatization hike to a height of 4200-4400 m on the southern slope of Elbrus. First we go up on the cable car to the station "Mir" 3500 m. Overnight in Terskol, we prepare backpacks for moving to the shelter.

Day 4: Today we are moving to the Bochki shelter. We go up on a cable car to a height of 3850 m, check into a shelter, have lunch and go to the acclimatization exit to a height of 4600-4800 m, we conduct ice classes. We return to the shelter, have dinner and rest.

Day 5: After breakfast, we will have an acclimatization hike to a height of 4800-5000 m, hanging railings for the upcoming ascent, and ice classes. We spend the night in "Barrels".

Day 6: Day of rest. We descend to a height of 3000 m or lower - at will. In the evening we move to the upper shelter at a height of 4200 m, check the equipment, have dinner and go to bed early.

Day 7: Starting a morning run at 3.00 Visiting local attractions, checking the stability of the summit stone of the Western Summit, returning to the shelter at 4200 m, with the removal of the ropes along the way.

Day 8: spare day in case of bad weather.

Day 9: spare day. Descent to Terskol in the evening. Festive dinner at the hotel. Spare days can be used for skiing or snowboarding.

Day 10: In the morning departure to Pyatigorsk.

List of required equipment:

General tourist equipment and clothing:

Large travel backpack (you must leave an empty space for public equipment and products)
- assault backpack (30-40 l)
- sleeping bag (comfort temperature not less than -5) and a rug. More about choosing
- trekking poles (optional, but it is more convenient with them)
- trekking boots (for radial exits), rubber slippers (for a hotel)
- thermal underwear: pants + jacket
- fleece jacket + pants
- storm pants + jacket (membrane, wind and moisture protection)
- puff (jacket with down insulation)
- insulated pants (with down or synthetic insulation)
- fleece gloves
- thick downy mittens (basic)
- one more mittens (spare)
- T-shirt, underwear, towel
- 2 pairs of thick woolen socks, several pairs of walking socks (cotton or special trekking socks)
- sunglasses (the degree of darkening of the lens is not less than 4)
- ski mask (in case bad weather, the simplest)
- fleece balaclava
- thick fleece or thick wool hat
- sunscreen (protection 50+)
- personal hygiene products, personal first aid kit
- headlamp and spare batteries
- thermos
- KLMN (mug, spoon, bowl, knife)
- personal "running" snack (several chocolate bars)

Climbing equipment:

cats
- lower harness (included in the price if you don't have your own)
- ready-made lanyards or a piece of dynamic rope 3 meters long and 9 mm in diameter.
- a piece of cord with a diameter of 6-7 mm. and 1.5 meters long.
- jumar
- descender (figure eight / reverse / gris-gris)
- ice ax (included in the price if you don't have your own)
- 2 ice screws + 2 carabiners without clutch
- helmet (included if you don't have your own)
- 3 carabiners with clutch
- climbing boots. For winter climbing, special high-altitude models (La Sportiva Olympus, Spantik, Zamberlan 8000, Millet Everest) or plastic boots paired with insulated shoe covers are suitable.

Where to get climbing equipment:

Option 1: rent at the box office in the Elbrus region. You can familiarize yourself with the prices of this rental. The rental provides discounts to our members.

Option 2: rent at the box office in Moscow. You can familiarize yourself with the prices of Moscow rental. The rental provides discounts to our members.

Option 3: renting from our rental is the cheapest option, but the number of equipment in our rental is limited - book well in advance! Prices can be found.

Option 4: buy your equipment. Write to us and we will help you with the choice! And also we will provide in many shops of equipment.

List of required documents:

Identification document (RF passport)
- health insurance policy

* If you plan to rent any equipment in the Elbrus region, then take a document with you that you can leave as a deposit. For example, a driver's license.

Meals (included in price):

In hotel: We have breakfast and dinner in the cafe at the hotel. Breakfast usually includes: cottage cheese, milk porridge, scrambled eggs, cheese, bread, butter, tea and coffee in unlimited quantities, lemon. Dinner includes: soup, second course, salad, bread, cookies or pastries, tea and coffee in unlimited quantities.

On acclimatization exits: in the afternoon on the acclimatization exits we have a hearty snack. Each participant receives an individual snack in the morning: nuts, dried fruits, chocolate, cookies, and also brews tea in his thermos before going out and takes it with him.

In the mountain shelter: here we will have at our disposal the usual “urban” products (vegetables, fruits, cereals, canned food, cookies, dryers, jam, halva, chocolate, honey, etc.) from which we will prepare a variety of camping dishes: for breakfast, sweet cereals, soups for lunch, main courses for dinner.

On the way to the top: before storming the summit, each participant receives an individual snack: nuts, dried fruits, chocolate, fruits, cookies.

Accommodations:

In hotel: the hotel is located in a picturesque pine forest on the banks of the Baksan River, accommodation in comfortable 2-4 bed rooms, all amenities in the room, wi-fi, TV, clothes dryer, luggage room.

In the mountain shelter: common rooms for 6-10 people in metal trailers resembling a polar station. We sleep in sleeping bags on wooden floors covered with polyurethane mats or on beds covered with mattresses. The cabins are warm and dry inside. We cook and eat in a separate large dining trailer.

Hike cost:

Cost of participation: 35 000 rubles

What is included in the price:

Transfer from Pyatigorsk to Terskol and back
- accommodation in a comfortable hotel according to the program
- meals at the hotel according to the program (breakfast + dinner)
- accommodation in a mountain shelter according to the program (6 days, including spare days)
- Meals at the Alpine Shelter
- transfer of equipment and personal belongings by snowcat from the "Barrels" to the shelter at 3900 m.
- ascent by cable car according to the program (1 time to the Mir station, 1 time to the upper Garabashi)
- certificate of successful climbing Elbrus
- work of instructors
- public climbing equipment (ropes, station loops, etc.)
- radio communication
- group first aid kit
- registration of the group in the Ministry of Emergency Situations

What is not included in the price:

Travel to Pyatigorsk/Mineralnye Vody
- pocket expenses, souvenirs, sauna, etc.

Possible additional costs:

Ordering a bath after the descent (300-500 rubles per person)
- visiting a cafe (on average 500 rubles per lunch)
- buying souvenirs
- purchase of a personal "running" snack (several chocolate bars)
- rental of personal climbing equipment (crampons, harness, ice ax, helmet, carabiner)
- use of snowmobiles, snowcats and lifts not according to the program.
- Accommodation in a hotel not according to the program.

Payment and booking:

You can fully pay for participation in the winter ascent of Elbrus directly to the instructor, on the first day of the expedition. To book a place in a group, you must make an advance payment of 20% Attention: the return of the prepayment for participation in the winter ascent of Elbrus is possible no later than three months before the start of the hike (no later than November 14, 2019).

1. Mountaineering is potentially dangerous and can harm your health.

2. The weather in the mountains is the most important factor determining the success and safety of the entire expedition. The weather can make its own adjustments - you need to be prepared for this. We will not storm the mountain "at any cost" and in any weather. That is why there are 2 spare days in the expedition schedule (only 3 assault attempts).

3. Almost everywhere on the route there is a cellular connection.

4. What is the difference between winter climbing Elbrus and summer climbing? - In short, much more severe conditions. In winter, it is much colder - the temperature at the top can be up to -40 degrees, and taking into account the wind, even lower. There is a lot of snow on the slopes - especially at the bottom (you may have to trail). There may be so-called ice fields at the top, which will need to be processed in advance before storming the summit. Daylight hours in winter are shorter - the dawn is later, and the sunset is earlier, and therefore you need to storm the summit at a good pace.

Harsh conditions create certain requirements for the preparation of climbers: firstly, experience is needed. It is definitely not worth starting your acquaintance with mountaineering with a winter climb to Elbrus. Secondly, you need good equipment. Going to the top in single-layer trekking boots will not work! Equipment can be bought or rented.

But on the other hand, visiting the winter Elbrus is an incomparable experience! Dazzling snow-white mountains wherever you look, fresh clean snow, few people (above), more interesting route the opportunity to go skiing or snowboarding.

Day 1 - Arrival at the program.

Arrival in Mineralnye Vody. Meeting of the group members at the airport of Mineralnye Vody. Transfer to Terskol village. To use a group transfer, you need to arrive at the Mineralnye Vody airport in the morning before 14:00.

At 14:30 - our car leaves with the group members to the village of Terskol at the foot of Elbrus to the hotel. Travel time - 3-4 hours on a mountain road to Mount Elbrus in the Baksan Gorge.

Upon arrival - accommodation in a hotel in 2, 3 and 4-bed standard hotel rooms in the village of Terskol or in the village of Elbrus.

Welcome dinner in a cafe with national cuisine. Acquaintance of the group with the guide. Overnight at the hotel.

Day 2 - Day of active acclimatization in the Elbrus region.

After breakfast at the hotel, we go to the high mountain zone for acclimatization. Climb to the waterfall Girlish Braids”and the observatory of the Russian Academy of Sciences (3000 meters) or climb Mount Cheget on foot.

Climbing up, we will see the Western and Eastern peaks of Elbrus, as well as the entire climbing route.

After a walk and lunch, your mountain guide will help you sort out the necessary equipment to climb the mountain. The missing equipment can be rented at the rental point.

Dinner. Overnight at the hotel in Terskol village.

Day 3 - Ascent to the "Barrels" (3800 meters). Acclimatization exit from the shelter "Barrels" to "Shelter-11" and above to the beginning of the rocky ridge 4400 meters.

Breakfast. Transfer from the hotel to the village of Azau to the lower station of the Elbrus cableway (2500 meters).

Today, the whole group, along with equipment and food, climbs on a cable car to the mountain shelter "Bochki". We settle in and settle down in our mountain house. There is already a good height here - 3800 meters, but for the best result it is important for us to climb as high as possible.

Therefore, after a light lunch and hot tea, we go out to the Shelter-11 area (4200 meters) or a little higher to the beginning of the rocky ridge (4300-4400 meters) - according to the group's well-being.

After the exit - descent to the shelter. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 4 - Ascent to the Pastukhov Rocks (4800 meters) and up to 5000 meters.

After breakfast, we continue acclimatization in the alpine zone. Ascent to the Pastukhov rocks (4800 meters).

According to the well-being of the group, you can climb up to 5000 meters. If necessary, railings are hung above the Pastukhov rocks. Today there will be a training session, during which you will be able to practice moving in crampons on snow and ice terrain, “self-holding” when falling with an ice ax, as well as moving along the railing (working with a rope).

Return to the shelter. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 5 - Rest day.

Today is a day of rest and a day of preparation for climbing Elbrus.

Our gradual climb program with rest day allows the body to adapt most effectively. And good acclimatization and well-being at a height is the key to a successful summit.

Early break. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 6 - Climbing to the top of Elbrus (5642 meters).

Today is an interesting and most important day of the program - the day of climbing to the top of Elbrus. Early rise at 2.00. Light breakfast. If the weather is good, the start of the ascent is at 3 am. The ascent to the Western summit of Elbrus, depending on the speed of the group, takes from 8 to 10 hours.

You need to be at the top by 13:00 noon. After this time, all members of the group must begin their descent, wherever they are at that moment.

The descent from the top takes 5-6 hours. The decision to leave the group on the route and to descend from it is made by your mountain guide and it is binding on all members of the group.

Those who wish can climb on the night of the ascent on a snowcat from Bochek to the lowest point of the Pastukhov rocks (4600 meters). This saves 3-4 hours of time.

Dinner. Overnight at the shelter.

Day 7 - Descent to Terskol or Reserve day for the ascent.

In case of bad weather on the previous day, we can use this day as a reserve day for climbing Elbrus. In case of climbing on the previous day, we descend to Terskol for rest.

Breakfast. We collect backpacks and go down on the Elbrus cable car pendulum road to the foot of the mountain. Transfer from Azau to Terskol village.

Accommodation in our hotel in rooms with hot showers. Free time.

You can order a sauna or bath, organize fishing or just take a walk to the Cheget glade for souvenirs.

In the evening, according to tradition, a festive dinner in a cafe with national cuisine. Congratulations "On the mountain!" and issuance of certificates of climbing Elbrus. Overnight at the hotel in Terskol.

Day 8 - Departure for home.

Breakfast. Transfer Terskol village - the city of Mineralnye Vody. Departure home.

Tour cost: 40 500 rubles.

THE COST OF THE TOUR "Winter Climbing Elbrus from the South" INCLUDES:

  • Meeting of the group in the city of Mineralnye Vody;
  • Transfer the city of Mineralnye Vody - the village of Terskol and back;
  • Transfer Terskol - st. Azau and back;
  • Accommodation in a hotel in 2, 3 and 4-bed rooms in the village of Terskol or the village of Elbrus - three days;
  • Three breakfasts at the hotel;
  • Accommodation in the mountain shelter "Gara-Bashi" ("Barrels") or another equivalent shelter on Mount Elbrus - 4 days;
  • Food during your stay at the mountain shelter on Elbrus;
  • Services of a cook, preparation by the cook of a full-fledged 3 meals a day during your stay at the shelter;
  • Rental of group special equipment to ensure safety on the route (ropes for ropes, for railings, carabiners, ice screws);
  • Rental of kitchen equipment (gas burners, cylinders, dishes);
  • Accompanying the group by a mountain guide during the entire program (one climbing attempt is included in the price): 1 guide for a group of 3-4 people;
  • Services of the 2nd mountain guide on the day of climbing for a group of 5-8 people;
  • Services of the 3rd mountain guide on the day of climbing for a group of 8-12 people;
  • Climbing-descent on the Elbrus cable pendulum road;
  • Security (registration with the Ministry of Emergency Situations, GPS-navigator, communication on the route, first-aid kit);
  • Climbing certificate to the top of Elbrus for each participant;

THE COST OF THE TOUR "Winter Climbing Elbrus from the South" DOES NOT INCLUDE:

  • Travel from the place of residence to the city of Mineralnye Vody and back;
  • Rental of personal climbing equipment (cramps, ice ax, safety system, trekking poles, sleeping bag, backpack, etc.);
  • Lunches and dinners while staying at the hotel;
  • Renting a snowcat on the night of climbing to lift the group from the "Barrels" to the Pastukhov rocks - 60-70 Euro per person. The cost of renting a snowcat depends on the number of people in the snowcat and the height of the lift;
  • Accident insurance;

REQUIRED DOCUMENTS FOR CLIMBING ELBRUS:

  • The passport;
  • Medical policy;

FEATURES OF THE TOUR "CLIMBING ELBRUS"

This tour belongs to the class of ascents. According to the climber's classification, the route along which Elbrus is climbed from the South (the Western peak of Elbrus or the Eastern peak of Elbrus) is defined as a route of 2 A category of difficulty.

The route presents no technical difficulties.

However, natural factors- such as altitude and the rarefaction of air associated with it, cold, frost, frequent winds, lack of visibility in bad weather, the release of sulfur dioxide (Mount Elbrus is, according to one opinion, extinct, according to another, a dormant volcano), increased activity of solar radiation; - all this requires climbers to be in good physical shape, endurance, and high-quality equipment.

CLIMBING ELBRUS. SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS FOR PARTICIPANTS:

  • Absence of medical contraindications for mountain sports.
  • Good physical form.
  • Age limit - not younger than 14 years. From the age of 14, it is possible to travel with parents or close relatives who have written permission from their parents to participate in this tour.

SAFETY AND MEDICINE:

Each group is equipped with a first aid kit, radio stations and navigation aids (GPS). All groups are registered in the Elbrus detachment of the EMERCOM of Russia (village Terskol). You can contact the rescuers of the Ministry of Emergency Situations throughout the route. You only need to bring personal medicines with you (vitamins, headache pills, band-aids, etc.)

IMPORTANT INFORMATION!!!

  • Due to the increased danger of the tour, the guide's instructions given to them during the ascent or in preparation for it in terms of ensuring safety are binding on all participants.
  • The decision to leave the group to climb Elbrus or to return (descent) the group from the route is made by the guide, depending on the weather, the state of the route and / or the state of health of the participants. The decision is binding on all members of the group.
  • Depending on the weather conditions and the condition of the group, the tour program can be changed in agreement with the group members.
  • The travel agency is not responsible for not making the ascent due to the physical unpreparedness or personal indiscipline of the climbers, bad weather or the state of the route.
  • Disputable issues can be resolved before going out to climb Elbrus through negotiations in the process of joint drinking of a container of tea, or after descending to the shelter.

THE ORGANIZERS OF THE TOUR RESERVE THE RIGHT TO TERMINATE AND / OR REDUCTION OF THE TOUR FOR INDIVIDUAL TOURISTS OR FOR THE WHOLE GROUP WITHOUT PAYING COMPENSATION IN THE FOLLOWING CASES:

  • unauthorized actions of tourists violating the rules of safety and behavior in the mountains;
  • non-compliance with the rules of public order and excessive consumption of alcoholic beverages;
  • manifestations of disrespect for the local population and nature;

PHONE ON ELBRUS:

Almost all cellular communication operators, such as MTS, Megafon and Bee-Line, work quite steadily in this area. In the very center of the village of Terskol, you can buy a local SIM card from any mobile operator at the post office.

Also in the village of Terskol there is an Internet cafe, a bank and several ATMs.