Which tent is better to choose - with an internal frame or an external one. How does an external frame tent work What is better nylon polyester tent

Currently, selling camping equipment, a huge selection of tents from various manufacturers. Prices for different models from different manufacturers may vary several times.

Let's try to figure out what prices depend on.

What are we buying?

In this review, we will not compare various designs, as well as the differences inherent in trademarks.
Of course, a promoted brand is more expensive, but we should not forget that a serious company (brand) always values ​​its name and cannot afford to offer poor quality products to the buyer.

So, buying a little more expensive, you are insured against the troubles that may arise during operation. And the more difficult, more stressful the operating conditions are, the more the safety of the person using this equipment depends on the quality of the equipment.

Other things being equal, different models of tents use different fabrics, accessories, threads, etc. It is these most important components of any product, on which the cost of equipment and its functional properties mainly depend, let me draw your attention in this article.

Tourist tent: materials, technologies, quality

CODING tent materials

Tents and materials produced in different countries, by different manufacturers, are labeled quite differently. Moreover, you will not find two companies that would label fabrics in the same way.

A complete mess is observed in the numbers describing such properties as water resistance, "breathing" properties of membrane materials, strength, weight. This is due to the use of data obtained from various tests conducted under different conditions. Many firms "forget" or consider it unnecessary to provide accurate data - often this is dictated by competition.

When choosing a tent, you should pay attention to the designation of the awning fabric.

Here is what can be found in various descriptions:

• Rip Stop Nylon 190T
• 210T Rip Stop Nylon PU 3000
• 185T Polyester Taffeta PU/Si
• 210T Rip Stop Nylon PU
• 70D Polyester Ripstop W/R
• 75D Polyester Ripstop PU/ SI
• 70D Nylon Taffeta 210T PU
• 75D Nylon Taffeta W/R
• 75D Poly Taffeta PU

Let's deal with these codes in order. The description may contain information about the following properties of the fabric:

Density (strength)

There are various ways to mark the density of a fabric:

• Thread Count is the total number of threads per square inch in the longitudinal and transverse directions (for example: 210T means 210 threads). The higher the number, the denser the fabric.
• Den (Denie) - the thickness of the threads involved in the weave (for example: 75D).

The chemical composition of the threads:

1. Polyester, Poly - polyester.
2. Nylon - nylon (polyamide).

Type of fabric weaving (for example: Rip Stop, Taffeta - fabrics with weaves, where a thicker thread is woven through a certain number of threads. In this case, the fabric will be more tear-resistant with a slight increase in weight).

Tactel - type of special threads (sometimes: Nylon 66, Dupon Nylon 66, Tactel, etc.); usually a proper name.

Type of fabric treatment (e.g. PU 3000):

• PU - polyurethane coating (usually applied to the inside of the fabric).
• 3000 is the water resistance index of the fabric in millimeters of water column (up to 1500 mm - the fabric cannot be considered waterproof, it will start to leak when it rains; 3000 mm or more - the awning fabric will withstand almost any weather conditions).
• PU/SI - polyurethane coating plus silicone, which can be applied on the inside or outside of the fabric.
• W/R - water-repellent coating on top of the fabric.

An example of a complete description of the tent awning material:

70D/75D Nylon Taffeta 210T PU 3000 W/R

• fabric made of special polyamide yarns with a Taffeta weave type, 70D in the longitudinal direction and 75D in the transverse direction
• density 210T
• with a polyurethane coating that "holds" 3000 mm of water column
• the fabric has a top water-repellent treatment

Brief comments on all parts of the tent

awning tent

• The thickness of the threads is responsible for the strength. Thicker threads give more weight to the fabric.
• Thread count is an equally important parameter.
• Loose fabric - warps, stretches a lot and, as a rule, is not durable.

Polyester is more resistant to UV radiation than Nylon, which is very important for awnings. Also, Nylon fiber fabric stretches when wet and shrinks when dry (i.e. you have to re-tighten the Nylon awning each time the humidity and temperature change)

Water resistance (water resistance - measured in mm of water column), a very important indicator.

The 3000mm awning fabric will withstand almost any rain.

It is important that the water resistance value indicated in the characteristics of the tent is true (this is not the case for many companies).

Water resistance of 3000 mm is achieved by double application of polyurethane impregnation, 5000 mm by triple application and so on.

It is clear that each application is an additional weight and price. PU impregnation is applied from the inside of the awning. At the "right" factories, it is applied in such a way that it does not crumble, does not crack and serves for a long time.

The question arises: why do we need such high water resistance, if we are not going to put up tents under water?

The point is this. A drop of water with a certain weight falling from high altitude, has kinetic energy and, when hit by an awning, can simply "pierce" material with low water resistance.

The second reason is that the material gradually wears out and begins to leak over time. Accordingly, the greater the water resistance of the tent, the longer your tent will serve.

Silicone treatment is usually applied to the top or bottom layer of the material (it can also be applied over the PU impregnation, but in this case it is not possible to glue the seams).Most tent companies now use fabric with silicone on the outside.This impregnation is very durable and functional: silicone does not allow moisture to accumulate in the fibers of the fabric. At the same time, the silicone coating significantly increases the tensile strength of the fabric.

If Rip Stop weave is used, this fabric will be more durable with a slight increase in weight.
All tent manufacturers abbreviate the descriptive part when specifying the characteristics of the materials.

Pay attention to gluing the seams. They must be glued with a special thermal tape. If you are told about the special properties of the fabric, in which the holes from the needle are tightly tightened around the thread and do not allow water to pass through, I dare to assure you that after a short period of operation, the fabric will stretch and flow like a sieve in heavy rain.

INTERNAL TENT

If the awning of the tent is designed to protect you from the rain, then you have to live in the inner one. Like your favorite room, the inner tent should be comfortable (additional pockets, strong seams, large living volume).

Pay attention to the color of the inner tent: it should be light, combined with the color of the awning. Otherwise, the morning will seem bleak to you. Light, passing through two obstacles, can change the complexion of the inhabitants of the tent to unrecognizable. It's not very pleasant to see a neighbor's blue or green face every morning.

The fabric from which the inner tent is made must have the following properties:

• Be light and strong (preferably Rip Stop weave) as the inner tent takes on a significant load during operation.
• Have good "breathing" properties, but at the same time retain the wind.
• It is desirable that the inner tent has a water-repellent W / R treatment. Such impregnation will save you from drops of condensate, which, under certain weather conditions, appear on the inside of the awning. Drops will roll down without penetrating into the living space. The W/R treatment does not impair the breathability of the inner tent.

For an inner tent, Nylon is better. It is softer and more tear resistant than polyester. UV resistance for an inner tent is not important.

BOTTOM OF THE TENT

The material of the bottom of the tent can be made of fabric or structural polyethylene (as on the bags of the "shuttles" in which they transport their goods). Polyethylene is usually used in cheap tents; fabric is in good

The fabric at the bottom of the tent should be more waterproof than the tent awning.

• 5000 - 10000 mm is enough to prevent water from penetrating inside the tent with strong pressure. The floor fabric is under pressure from the bodies of sleeping tourists. This pressure can cause the fabric to become wet.
• Floor fabric with 3000mm water resistance can withstand body pressure;
• 5000 mm - leg pressure;
• 10000 mm - elbow pressure

Check if the seams of the bottom of the tent are welded; especially pay attention to corner seams.

Properly gluing them is not easy, many companies save on this operation. Even if the fabric is sufficiently waterproof, water can enter through the sewing needle holes. you can sleep in a puddle.

ARC

An important component of tents is arcs.

Arcs on tents are made:

• fiberglass and epoxy resins (denoted in the descriptions as fiberglass or fiberglass);
• from aluminum alloys of various quality.

The most common brands are:

• 7075, 7001 from AMG (aluminum-magnesium alloy) of Korean production, they are used in high-quality tents;
• 7178, 6061 - require anodizing;
• Russian grades D16T and V95 cannot compete and are gradually being replaced by other alloys.

In addition to the brand of alloy, serious firms indicate its "hardness". Designations 7075-T9 and 7075-T6 differ in that in the first case a stronger alloy is used: arcs from this alloy are used by the most famous tent companies.

Fiberglass is heavier and less durable (service life is 2-5 years), but it also has a number of advantages:

• no residual deformation;
• high strength and elasticity;
• low price.

Fiberglass is about 1.5 times heavier than aluminum alloys. In addition, it does not tolerate large temperature changes and cannot be repaired.

If such an arc is broken, you need to look for a new one. Aluminum arcs can be repaired in field conditions.

The joints of the arcs are also different. The inner sleeve of smaller diameter can be attached to the arch using punching or glue. Sometimes the articulation of the arcs is carried out by flaring.

Minimal backlash and maximum connection strength for archwires with a glued adapter.

ACCESSORIES

But the most important thing is the little things! Imagine that your tent was falling apart at the seams at night in heavy rain. Or the pegs vomited, and the tent was carried away into the abyss. Or you died from insect bites.

That's why:

• The threads must be stronger than the fabric, not rot and not collapse under the influence of sunlight.
• Eyelets should be brass, not iron (this place in the tent is always wet).
• Lightning - extremely reliable (trust the Japanese brand YKK).
• Mosquito net - with small cells.
• Powerful plastic fittings - reliable (trust Duraflex or Nexus).
• The straps are light and durable. They should easily pass through the adjustment buckles.
• Storm guy lines are strong and thin, as well as visible in the dark and during the day.
• Pegs - light and durable, not bending. It is desirable that they do not rotate in the ground, i.e. would not have a round profile.
• The seams on the awning and the bottom of the tent must be welded (glued) with high quality.
  This can only be done on expensive equipment, choosing the right temperature, pressure and sizing speed.

In St. Petersburg, you can buy tents at sale prices, just click on the desired tent:

How to choose the right camping tent? The question of choosing a tent for hiking, trekking or climbing was preoccupied by every tourist, both novice and experienced. In this article you will find almost all the selection criteria that you need to pay attention to when buying. After reading this article, you will arm yourself with a wealth of knowledge about tourist tents. We hope that even experts will be interested!

Passion for hiking is not only a desire to see and learn new beautiful places, to be in nature, outside the cities, but also a certain challenge to the usual way of life. The traveler somehow goes beyond the usual limits of comfort. Cooking in the forest or mountains, the vagaries of the weather, the physical difficulties of overcoming obstacles make it completely different, to re-evaluate the meaning of the very concept of "comfort". Comfortable hiking shoes, well-fitting, dry, warm and, of course, a reliable tent - these are the main “whales” that keep the feeling of comfort on a hike. Today we will talk about tents.

Of course, there are a great many types of tents - trade, military, and even entire pavilion tents of enormous size. Here we will consider tourist tents. By camping tent we mean a mobile shelter that can protect the traveler from the vicissitudes of the weather - rain, wind, insects and small animals, cold (within limits, of course). A tourist tent should have a reliable design, be simple and easy to set up and fold, take up little space when folded, and when unfolded, provide normal conditions for rest and sleep.

Twenty years ago and before, there was not much choice in the post-Soviet tourist space - most used the same type of serial structures, bulky and heavy, or they had to make tents on their own. There were few foreign models and products of a few local manufacturers, and they were inaccessible to many. Gradually, the market was filled with a large number of a wide variety of models - for every taste and budget. Understanding this diversity can be difficult not only for a novice tourist, but also for more experienced travelers.

WHERE TO BUY A HIKING TENT?

If this is your first time buying a tent, and you are not an experienced marketer, it is best to make your first purchase at a large equipment center. Here you can choose from a variety of models, see, touch and even install / fold your favorite model. In such stores, as a rule, real experts in the travel industry work, so they sell the most suitable, functional models, and do not order everything in a row, like large online stores of "everything in the world." Here you can really help with advice when choosing. Sellers usually use the equipment themselves, and are not theoretical consultants. The main thing is not to fall completely under the influence of the seller.

HOW TO BUY IN THE EQUIPMENT CENTER?

Remember, there are very few real “pumped level 1000 sales masters” who are able to delve specifically into your request and sell what you need. In most cases, even an experienced climber, who is also a sales assistant, will sell you equipment “for himself”. This can lead to the fact that you will fall under the "magical influence of a specialist" and acquire something that you do not quite need. To avoid this, go shopping as prepared as possible, draw up the criteria for your choice, even write them down. Save photos of models you like on the Internet on your smartphone. You know that in the photo on the Internet, everything may not look like in reality. Forming your desires before buying, avoid a large number of advisers, especially those with poor qualifications - you risk completely getting confused. If possible, choose a couple of really smart people whose opinion you trust, describe your task to them as constructively as possible. They will ask you the right questions. After that, go to the store. The chosen tent must be laid out, ask permission to climb inside - lie down on the mat, sit. If you are going to become an avid tourist, remember - this is your future home in a variety of places and conditions and you must be confident in it.

Now let's look at what you definitely need to know about tents.

The main criteria for choosing a tent:

TENT DESIGNS

Nowadays, most tents, even budget series, are made from modern, completely reliable materials. Now almost ALL tents are completely waterproof and have seams glued with a special heat-shrink tape. The material in many cases has ceased to be the No. 1 criterion in the selection. The only exceptions are the cheapest models, the so-called "tents from the supermarket" - they should be avoided. The first thing you will need to decide when choosing - what design of the tent do you need?

Most modern tents are stretched on a frame. So, by default, your tent will have a frame. But there are tents without their frame. They are stretched with trekking poles (it's good that you have them) or improvised means. In what cases should you pay attention to such structures?

FRAMED TENTS

You are a light-moving minimalist and save every gram, ready to give up the convenience of an overnight stay in favor of weight and compactness. You will rarely need a tent on a hike, or it may not come in handy at all, you take it “just in case”. Perhaps just a tarpaulin or bivouac bag will work for you. The type of tourist activity inexorably requires you to have a light and as compact as possible backpack - ski tours, complex via ferats, adventure races, etc.

Choosing a similar design, you should keep in mind the pros and cons.

Advantages of a frameless tent:

• Minimum packing volume and weight.
• Relatively low cost (not always, there are very expensive models).
• The ability to more fully use your equipment (trekking poles, skis).

Cons of a frameless tent:

• Often less easy to install compared to self-supporting structures.
• Usually the worst habitability and wind resistance.
• Now on the market are frame tents weighing less than a kilogram. They are expensive, but maybe worth a closer look?

Frame structures of tents

Most modern frame structures on the market have a self-supporting frame. In other words, these are free-standing tents; in calm weather, they practically do not need stretching. However, in many models, you still need to stretch their individual parts to give the correct shape and maximum internal volume. The use of a free-standing tent is also possible on camping decks, asphalt and concrete sites, soft sand - where it is problematic to fix stretch marks. Also, tensile structures are very common, the installation of which is possible only with the help of stretch marks.

frame material

GRP, FIBERGLASS

It is used for tents of the lower price range. The worst option is black, matte, opaque fiberglass. If possible, choose a frame made of reinforced plastic - it is more reliable and durable. A plastic frame is suitable where weight, extreme wind resistance and use at sub-zero temperatures are not critical. If you don't want to spend a lot of money on gear, hiking infrequently and during the warmer months is your option.

ALUMINUM

The most balanced frame material. It should be noted that simpler grades of aluminum are used on budget structures than on more expensive ones. They are somewhat heavier and have less strength and elasticity. On more expensive models, more functional grades of aluminum and aluminum alloys are used. Top models can be equipped with frames made of scandium and even CARBON. Also, some well-known and expensive manufacturers order frames from specialized developers for maximum reliability and giving their products a touch of “elitism”. The most famous manufacturer of tent frames is DAC. You should know that this famous creator of the most durable frames has both simpler and more expensive lines. Check this point with the seller.

INFLATABLE FRAME

So far, such tents are still so rare that it makes no sense to write about them.

OUTER OR INTERNAL FRAME?

INTERNAL FRAME

The most common solution. The frame is located between the inner and outer tents. The inner tent is hung on it, and the awning is simply stretched from above and fastened.

Advantages of a tent with an internal frame:

• The length of the frame is less than with an external arrangement, which means that weight and dimensions are saved.
• Installation is possible only with an inner tent, which is in demand in good weather.
• If you have a special kit (usually purchased separately, but sometimes included in the kit), you can install only an outer tent without an inner one with a separate bottom, which at other times can be used as a FOOTPINT (protective bedding).
• The outer surface of the tent is as smooth and streamlined as possible, snow and debris accumulate on it less.

Minuses tents with inner frame :

• Possibly slightly worse wind resistance.
• In case of breakage, the frame can tear the awning material.
• When set up in the rain, the inner tent has time to get wet.
• Installation in the wind is less convenient.

HUB FRAME

Recent invention. It is mainly used in models of the "ultralight" segment. The main feature is the presence of "hubs" - frame connections that allow optimizing its total length, volume, and hence weight. As a rule, it is used as an internal frame. The main advantages - low weight with a large internal volume of the tent. The main disadvantages are the worst wind resistance and high cost. Often the hub frame is an all-in-one design - all frame elements are interconnected by an elastic cable, forming, as it were, one complex arc. Such a frame is convenient to fold even for a beginner.

OUTER FRAME

It is located on top of the entire structure, the arcs are visible. The inner tent is attached to the outer one. There are two main options for attaching the awning to the outer frame. With the help of LAT-POCKETS. These are original sleeves made of mesh or fabric, where the frame is threaded, after which it is fixed with tips in special eyelets. On the one hand, this is the most wind-resistant design, distributing the load as evenly as possible, on the other hand, it is the most time-consuming to install. Sometimes the final setting (stretching) of the tips into the eyelets is associated with such efforts that some girls or teenagers are unable to complete it! So practice before you buy. The second option is with hooks or carabiners. Reminiscent of fastening the inner tent to the frame in models with an inner frame. Such a system has unsurpassed convenience and speed of installation! If you bothered to attach the inner tent to the outer one in advance (or you have a single-layer tent) - installation will take a matter of seconds. This can be especially appreciated in stormy conditions. At the same time, the carbines do not provide a phenomenal load distribution of the first option. Here you have to choose.

Advantages of a tent with an external frame:

1. Possibility to set up an inner tent together with an outer tent.
2. Possibility to install an outer tent without an inner tent and without a bottom, like an awning.
3. Good wind resistance, easier to put in the wind.
4. In the event of a frame breakage, the awning usually remains intact, making it easier to repair.
5. When setting up in the rain, the inner tent stays dry.

Minuses tents with outer frame:

1. You can not set up an inner tent without an awning!
2. The frame is relatively longer and heavier than in the first version.
3. Detains snow and debris (leaves, branches, serves as the basis for weaving a web, etc.)
4. Significant installation effort is possible.
5. Typically, such structures are equipped with floor straps connecting the attachment points of the ends of the arcs. Straps can get tangled and make installation difficult.
6. Installing from scratch, without an attached inner layer, is quite laborious.

CONCLUSION: for most tourists, the option with an internal frame is preferable, which is confirmed by sales volumes. Tents with an outer frame are more suitable for professional use - in the mountains, in cold climates, in bad weather conditions.

SINGLE OR DOUBLE LAYER TENT?

Most tents on the market are double layered. As a rule, this is an inner tent, equipped with a tub-like (going on the walls) waterproof bottom and a light, breathable top, part of which is made of lightweight mesh. In tents for use in warm and hot seasons, almost the entire top can be made of mesh, but for models for colder conditions, the amount of mesh is much less and it can be closed with a denser fabric with a zipper. The outer tent, as a rule, is a protective awning made of waterproof durable fabric with fixed guy wires. It is connected to the inner tent, usually through a frame using special fastexes or other fixing devices equipped with a tension mechanism. It allows you to stretch the awning as tight as possible, which is necessary during rain or wind. A double-layer tent forms an air gap between the inner and outer tent. This makes staying in it more comfortable in both hot and cold weather and to a greater extent prevents condensation in the living area, which is very important for keeping your things dry during the trip.

single layer tent it is either a very cheap and extremely simplified "supermarket" option, or a specialized design for certain tasks. Almost all single-layer tents, one way or another, have problems with condensation, even when using special breathable fabrics, so their use in most cases is limited to winter, mountains and other places with low air temperatures, where condensation is not so critical. Also, single-layer tents are colder in the cold, and hotter in the sun than their double-layer counterparts. In return, they offer the ultimate in low weight and volume, ease of installation and folding in extreme weather conditions, and minimal installed dimensions, allowing them to be placed on the smallest flat area. As you already understood, this option is not for everyone! It is also worth considering the often very high cost of such structures.

SHAPE OF THE TENT

dome tent

Dome structures are the most common. For decades, such tents have been faithfully serving tourists, climbers, hunters and fishermen. The simplest dome design is formed by a frame of two pillars crossed in the middle. This tent is easy to set up and lightweight. At the same time, it cannot boast of a spacious lobby (one or two). Often, to increase the functionality (internal volume, wind resistance), one or more frame arcs or special frame spacers are added to the structure. The more intersections the frame elements make with each other, the stronger the tent.

Half barrel tent

The second most common type of tent today. In popularity, it lags behind the dome by orders of magnitude. The appearance of such a tent is clear from the name. The main drawback is that the tent is not free-standing (self-supporting), stretch marks are needed. Installation is usually more difficult, especially for beginners. The main advantage is excellent wind resistance (if installed correctly), good internal volume, low weight. This tent is rarely chosen by beginners, mainly by experienced campers who are able to take advantage of the advantages and compensate for the disadvantages.

tent marquee

A classic that looks like an Indian "teepee", "wigwam" or yurt. It is usually mounted on a center pillar, although there are other options. The option is very common in North America, we have little demand. Basically, in the post-Soviet space, a similar design is used for winter trips, usually skiing, since it is convenient for using ski equipment as a frame and installing a stove. Often there are options without a floor.

"HOUSE"

The once uncontested version of Soviet tourists. The structure is usually single layer. Now it is not widely used due to low habitability, dependence on stretch marks and installation difficulties. A rare guest on store shelves. In a new interpretation - a compact frameless tent mounted on track sticks, a frequent choice of "preppers", "bushcrafters" and beginner light walkers.

NUMBER OF INPUTS. VESTIBULAS (TAMBOURS), PLACEMENT OF THINGS IN THE TENT

Many are used to the fact that the tent should have one entrance (exit). It's nice when the entrance to the tent allows comfortable use in the rain. Practice shows that two inputs are much better than one. Therefore, if possible, choose a model with two inputs. If you do not intend to use the tent often in narrow areas, it is better to choose a model with side entrances (provided that you have a 2-3 person tent; if the tent is larger, then the entrance/exit at the heads/legs is a good option). What is the best way to organize storage space? Of course, it is better to keep little things and some clothes at hand in the tent itself, for which pockets will be useful to you in it and the “mezzanine” is especially pleasant - a shelf under the ceiling. Backpacks, shoes and bulky/dirty things are convenient to keep in the lobbies (lobby). In theory, the more of them (that is, two are better than one) and the larger their volume (for example, it’s good when a separate arc of the frame is “responsible” for the vestibule), the better. In practice, you are constantly balancing between the useful volume of the tent and vestibules and its weight / dimensions / cost. Think about what will be important to you and proceed from this in your choice. Where do you want to shift the focus - towards comfort or light weight?

Tent bottom material

Most tents have a fabric bottom. The bottom is constantly under heavy load - you lie on it, push, press with your elbows and knees. However, your tent is rarely located on an ideal surface. Therefore, it is good that the bottom is made of high-strength fabric. The modern trend of weight reduction makes many manufacturers more chasing the lightness of the product, and not its strength and resource. In some sense, it is beneficial for the manufacturer if your tent wears out faster and is replaced with a new one. If you are also looking for weight and buy an ultra-light tent, be especially careful when using it. I also advise you to use FUTPRINT (litter) on suspicious surfaces. The bottom material must not only be very durable, but also have increased water resistance. In the classical European measurement system, the minimum water resistance value for the bottom of the tent should be considered as 5000 mm. But remember that by pushing with your elbow, you create more pressure, and the tent may leak. An indicator of 10,000 mm of water column is considered absolutely reliable. At the same time, it is enough for an awning to have characteristics of 3-5000 mm. American manufacturers report significantly more modest figures. But, firstly, they are guaranteed for life for the fabric, and secondly, the system for assessing water resistance overseas is somewhat different from the European one.

On cheap tents, the floor can be made of structured polyethylene, which looks like an oilcloth bag from a supermarket. There is nothing terrible in such a field with infrequent use. It is heavier and somewhat more bulky, but it is perfectly repaired with mounting tape. This floor is suitable for not too demanding and economical tourists. I happened to live in a tent with a polyethylene floor and a fiberglass frame on Elbrus, at an altitude of 4200 meters, for several nights in fairly fresh weather, and the tent coped with this test perfectly. True, polyethylene can freeze well to ice.

Tent material processing

In nature, especially in the mountains, the tent is subjected not only to mechanical stress, but also to strong solar radiation. To resist ultraviolet radiation and better moisture protection, most tents have additional fabric processing. Best of all, silicone coating resists UV and moisture. For internal impregnation and impregnation of the bottom, a polyurethane coating of the fabric is often used. Different types of coverage have their own advantages and disadvantages, which we will not dwell on in a review article. Also, fire-retardant impregnation of the awning and inner tent will be useful. This will help avoid damage from sparks or careless handling of the fire inside.

FEATURES OF OPERATION

COOKING IN THE TENT

Be very attentive and careful! Avoid using burners inside the tent unless absolutely necessary. If this cannot be avoided, cook in the vestibule, after making sure that there is a lot of air entering there and that no part of the burner or utensils comes into contact with the material of the tent. Avoid cooking in a tent on integrated systems such as jetboil, reactor and the like - they are extremely dangerous. There are many known accidents associated with this.

PACKING YOUR TENT FOR YOUR TRIP

You don't always have to put your tent in a bag. You can separate the parts of the tent and carry them separately from each other. Wet tent can be placed on the backpack during the movement to dry. When packing a tent without a cover in a backpack, make sure that it will not be damaged by sharp objects.

TENT CARE

Modern tents are made of synthetic materials, they are very unpretentious and require a minimum of maintenance. At the same time, they can serve you for a very long time. Nevertheless, the tent should at least be dried after the hike. When folding, avoid stereotypical (habitual) folds - in the same places. Repair the tent as soon as possible after damage occurs, using a suitable repair kit.

SEASONALITY OF USE

A very conditional feature. Extreme tents are often referred to as "all-weather" tents, and their use in the summer is often uncomfortable. At the same time, two-three-season tents are often successfully used in winter and in the mountains. However, some things should be understood. So, one of the main characteristics that determine the possibilities of use is wind resistance. A tent with a weak frame and large windage is hardly worth taking for difficult weather, it will not be able to withstand increased wind and snow loads. If you have a warm sleeping bag, you can use a tent with a lot of mesh inside in cold conditions, but it is important that it has enough strength and that the awning reaches the ground as low as possible. Contrary to the beliefs of some campers, a snow skirt is by no means a mandatory attribute of "winter" tents, although it can often be of great use in snow and in strong winds. However, many very well-known manufacturers sell "winter" tents without snow skirts. Experienced hikers know that a good windbreak can often be more important than a skirt or a very strong tent.

You must understand that modern super-technological tents of the "ultralight" segment may not withstand serious loads and take this into account in your travels. You also need to know that even the most expensive, heavy and durable super-extreme tent can be torn and simply destroyed by a hurricane.

Hiking wisdom, knowledge and developed intuition are often more important than the newest and most expensive equipment. And in anticipation of the arrival of all these important qualities and gaining the necessary experience, try to use equipment strictly for its intended purpose, take into account the positioning of the manufacturer and always use common sense.

Good luck with your choice and happy travels!

Under the internal arcs here, in this article, we mean such an installation scheme in which an internal tent is first placed, and then an awning is placed on it; accordingly, in a design with external arcs, the awning is first stretched, and then the inner tent is suspended from it.

Both schemes have their own certain advantages and disadvantages, which will be the subject of the article.

Tents with external arches on the outdoor market are presented in fewer models than the more “classic” ones with internal arches. Actually, the defining difference between them is the fact that a tent with external arches can be set up simultaneously with an internal tent and no longer be unfastened during the trip.

That is, at the very first bivouac, we set up an awning, fasten the inner lining to it, and in the morning we remove everything at the same time. In the evening, we set everything up again at the same time, and so on for the rest of the trip.

The advantages are immediately clear - quick installation and removal of the camp, and the worse the weather, the more noticeable the difference. At the same time, in the rain, the inner tent remains dry, and wet users get the opportunity to quickly climb into a warm sleeping bag.

From such pluses come out and minuses, which are not always immediately obvious. In particular, there are problems with drying the tent. If the arcs are internal, then we will remove the awning, throw it on a bush, a stone, or just whatever we need, while the inside also dries quickly. It is not so easy to dry the tent on the outer arcs, even by opening the entrance and ventilation “wide open”. If you really want to dry it, you still have to unfasten the inner tent. If the tent itself is small, such as or, then messing around with unfastening and fastening in the conditions of the running route in terms of time spent on this business, to put it mildly, is not productive. As a result, the tent is usually packed wet - by the way, nothing is done to it from this action. In locations where rains in summer are a fundamental norm and where, it happens, the sun rises to the sky through clouds only on holidays or thanks to a temporarily sober local shaman - for example, ridges and - drying does not play a role at all and the disadvantage ceases to be significant.

By the way, thanks to the aforementioned hiking areas, I generally have a very good attitude towards silicone (Si) on tents, since in this case, after a rain, you have to carry a little less water on yourself then along with the tent ...

In severe winter, if we travel with a two-layer tent, the situation is somewhat different.

Before packing, the tent usually has to be cleaned of condensate. If, for example, the three of us sleep in a tent well buried in a snowdrift, then there will be a lot of condensate, both in the inner lining and on the inside of the tent.

If the arches are internal, then we remove the awning, clean it with a mitten, then clean the inside from the inside, turn it over and pour condensate out of it through the entrance.

If the arcs are external, then first we clean the inside of the inside, sweep the condensate out, unfasten it from the awning, clean it from the inside and then take out the arcs.

As a result, in the case of external arcs, the operation of collecting and setting up the camp significantly increases in time. At the same time, the suspension and removal of the inner lining in forty-degree frost turns into a procedure that is fascinating in its obscene content. It is aggravated especially in those cases when the manufacturer uses fastexes instead of hooks at the corners of the tent and some cunningly hammered asymmetrical shape of his product, where at first you half fasten the inner lining, and then it turns out that you oriented it incorrectly. Unfastening the inner lining and rotating it in the light of a lantern fading in the cold under the hasty and accusing shouts of suffering comrades, you finally get confused and begin to commemorate the designer of this misfortune in bad words ( for the future - it's great if you know his name, it allows you to come up with better epithets), remember orientation by stars and sextant ( because it seems that otherwise you can’t fasten it correctly), as well as recall astrological and Orthodox horoscopes for a hike.

Of the winter pluses, it can only be subjectively noted that in a strong wind, in my opinion, it is somewhat easier to set up a tent with external arcs - especially one and if the suspension of the inner lining does not require special refinement in verbal constructions 🙂

In a stationary camp, hemorrhoids, of course, are less with condensate removal. By the way, the double-sided silicone coating of the tent, as it is not regrettable to admit because of the price of such tents, makes it somewhat easier to remove condensate - subjectively, it freezes to such a coating much less zealously.

From a very good and obvious plus of external arches, one can single out the fact that installing a separate awning without an inner can be a very convenient thing. Settling down for lunch and it's raining? We set up a tent and no problems. The same thing in the piercing wind and open places, especially in winter - they tied guy ropes for backpacks laid on the ground or snow / ice and the shelter is ready. Of course, this is all true for options when, during transportation, the inner tent is not fastened to the awning, and the tent itself, along with the arcs, lies somewhere in a pocket or a backpack valve, or on drags.

As for snow resistance and wind resistance, these factors depend on where arcs are located do not depend, but depend on other parameters, including the fact that how they are located. That is, in order to consider snow and wind resistance, it is necessary to consider the design of the product in full, as well as the materials from which it is made.

The choice of a tent with one or another arrangement of arches is more a choice of individual preference in the format "whatever you like". In my opinion, when choosing, one should also consider a combination of other structural elements - self-support, the number of arcs and their intersections, materials of the tent and arcs, the location and number of guys, and the like. Well, and most importantly, the choice of a tent, like all other equipment, must be consistent with the principle of self-sufficiency for those events in which we are going to participate.

How to choose a tourist tent? Among the huge variety of various shapes, sizes, capacity and water resistance, you want not to get lost and choose the one that is best suited for your trip. In order not to make a mistake and not regret a hasty choice during a hike, away from civilization, it is worth spending a few minutes and studying carefully the presented tents based on several factors. So which better tent? Let's try to understand the points and make the right choice.

Tourist tents today are quite widely represented on the market and differ from each other both in performance characteristics and in the price range. Below are some considerations to help you navigate and make the best decision.

Manufacturer. Tourist and camping tents from well-known manufacturers are more expensive than the average, but we should not forget that such companies value their name and therefore cannot afford to offer the buyer products of poor quality. Brand reputation is a guarantee of product quality and reliability. After all, your safety depends on the quality of the equipment!

From myself: The article has been slightly modified. Updated versions of tents, prices, descriptions and photos.

Manufacturer or brand
The most famous American manufacturers are Marmot, North Face, Sierra Design, Alexika. At the same time, many worthy trademarks are not known to Europeans. Of the European manufacturers, Salewa, Tatonka, Vaude, Jack Wolfskin, Camp, Ferrino have proven themselves most well in Russia. Among Russian manufacturers there are those who can boldly compete with foreign brands, and those who are just getting on their feet, trying to win over domestic consumers in the lowest price niche. We draw your attention to such brands as Bask, Normal, Red Fox, Nova Tour, Equipment.

Purpose
What is the purpose of the tent you are buying? Just don't tell yourself that for all occasions. Such tents simply do not exist. Let's say that for both the cyclist and the climber, the light weight of the tent is very important. However, the operating conditions of a tent in the mountains and during a bike ride are very different, respectively, and tents will need to be purchased completely different.

The Salewa company, in addition to the proprietary classification Alpinextreme, Salewa Classic, Five continents, Family Line, also uses another - Four Seasons, Three Seasons, Two Seasons. Let's take a closer look at this classification.

Four seasons. If you are going on a serious expedition in winter, then the tent of this class will be the right choice for you. Such tents are mainly taken by professionals, and they do not need to be told anything: they themselves know everything. About the features of these tents, I can only say that for greater wind resistance, it uses a larger number of arcs, made mainly from expensive duralumin alloys. A mandatory element is a storm skirt and braces. Such tents are lower than usual, the entrance is most often made in the form of a tightening tube, mosquito nets are usually not used, although this is not a hard and fast rule. These tents are made from the most durable fabrics, which are based on additional RipStop reinforcement. Recently, the awning fabric of such tents, in addition to polyurethane impregnation, has an additional silicone layer applied by the manufacturer from the top side of the awning.

three seasons. Tents of this class are designed for summer, spring and autumn, but are not very adapted to the conditions of winter or highlands. These include tents for base camps and simpler models. However, in such tents you can still protect yourself from storm winds and heavy rain. The Three Seasons category includes the hardiest tent models after the extreme ones.

Two seasons. These tents are mainly designed for warm weather, so good ventilation is an important quality for them. For this, the entrance to the tent, duplicated with a mosquito net, can serve. Some manufacturers also make the walls of the inner tent from mosquito nets. However, from my own experience, I will say that, despite the lightness and good ventilation qualities of this design, you run the risk of waking up because the condensate that accumulates on the inside of the awning will drip on you from above, easily flying through the mesh holes.

Summer/screen. This category includes the simplest, "beach", single-layer tents. They, according to users, are able to protect with varying degrees of success from light rain and non-hungry mosquitoes. Although this series also has its leaders, which are made of very good fabric, with a good mosquito net. Tents usually weigh less than 1 kilogram and cause delight among fans beach holiday and picnics.

As you can imagine, we haven't talked about camping tents yet. They are most often referred by manufacturers to a separate Family Line series. If we consider tents made for families, then they are mostly heavy structures - from 10 kilograms and more. These tents are more convenient to transport in the trunk of a car than to carry on your back. Their height is from 170 centimeters. Camping models use larger diameter poles and these tents are not designed for extreme conditions.

"Primitive", from our point of view, dwellings that have survived to this day mainly among the peoples Far North and possessing excellent aerodynamic (and not only) properties, were the prerequisite for the fact that at first in Scandinavia, as part of the Wild Life trend, designers began to exploit a simple, but at the same time very functional conical or pyramidal shape. Now, in Russia, you can also find "tents" for sale, which are superior to camping tents in a number of parameters and are easily operated all year round.

Tent capacity and weight
If we talk about these parameters, then in most cases they are interconnected. It was once thought that the maximum weight of a good tent should not exceed one kilogram per seat. However, depending on the specific operating conditions, this dependence may vary. For example, the average specific weight of an extreme tent can reach 1.8-2.2 kilograms per person - a bit heavy, of course, but you have to carry it. You can also accommodate three people in a one and a half tent weighing 1.8 kilograms. When it is very cold outside, this is how it should be done - there is no time for convenience and comfort. A camping tent can weigh 15 kilograms, be two-room and designed for 4 people.

What is the ratio of weight to the number of people who will sleep in a tent is up to you. It happens that the buyer of the tent can be found in the store with their own scales. The fact is that many professionals do not trust manufacturers who indicate the weight only in the minimum configuration (weight without storm braces and pegs) and at the same time “forget” to indicate the real weight. If the ratio of weight and capacity is an important parameter for you, pay close attention to it.

Design

In order for the tent not to let water through, the fabric is additionally processed. PU is a polyurethane coating that is usually applied to the inside of the fabric. The four-digit number next to it is the water resistance of the fabric in millimeters of water column. Water resistance of 3000 millimeters is achieved with a double application of polyurethane impregnation, 5000 millimeters with a triple application. Each application is an additional weight and price. With indicators of 3000 millimeters or more, the awning fabric will withstand almost any weather conditions.

PU/SI- polyurethane coating plus silicone, which can be applied on the inside or outside of the fabric. Most tent companies now use fabric with silicone on the outside. This impregnation is very functional: silicone not only prevents moisture from accumulating in the fibers of the fabric, but also increases its tensile strength.

W/R- Water-repellent fabric coating on top. You can add additional moisture-repellent properties yourself, using special water-repellent impregnations for this.

Rip Stop- this is the special weaving of the fabric, which makes it more durable with a slight increase in weight.

inner tent
In the inner tent you have to live. Pay attention to its color: it should be light, combined with the color of the awning. Otherwise, the morning will seem bleak to you. Light, passing through two obstacles, can change the complexion of the inhabitants of the tent to unrecognizable. It's not very pleasant to see a neighbor's blue or green face every morning.

The fabric that the inner tent is made of should be light and strong - Rip Stop weaving is preferred. In addition, it must have good "breathing" and windproof properties. It is desirable that the inner tent has a water-repellent W / R treatment. This impregnation will protect you from condensation. For an inner tent, Nylon is better. It is softer and more tear resistant than polyester. UV resistance for an inner tent is not important.

bottom of the tent
The bottom can be made of fabric or reinforced polyethylene. Polyethylene is generally used to make the tent cheaper, but it adds weight. When choosing a tent, pay attention to the following features:

1) the fabric at the bottom of the tent should be more waterproof than the awning of the tent;

2) floor fabric with 3000mm water resistance can withstand body pressure; 5000 millimeters - leg pressure; 10,000 millimeters - elbow pressure.

Check if the seams on the bottom of the tent are welded, especially the corner seams. Properly gluing them is not easy, many companies save on this operation.

Arcs of tents
Poles on tents are made of fiberglass and epoxy resins (denoted in the descriptions as fiberglass or fiberglass) or aluminum alloys of various qualities. The most common brands are 7075, 7001 from AMG (aluminum-magnesium alloy) of Korean production, they are used in high-quality tents; 7178, 6061 - require anodizing; Russian grades D16T and V95 cannot compete and are gradually being replaced by other alloys. In addition to the brand of alloy, serious firms indicate its "hardness". Designations 7075-T9 and 7075-T6 differ in that the former uses a stronger alloy. Fiberglass is about 1.5 times heavier than aluminum alloys. In addition, it does not tolerate large temperature changes and cannot be repaired. If such an arc is broken, you need to look for a new one. Aluminum arcs can be repaired in field conditions.

The joints of the arcs are also different. The inner sleeve of smaller diameter can be attached to the arch using punching or glue. Sometimes the articulation of the arcs is carried out by flaring. Minimal backlash and maximum bonding strength for archwires with a glued adapter

Important little things
The threads must be stronger than the fabric, not rot and not collapse under the influence of sunlight.
Eyelets should be brass, not iron (this place in the tent is always wet).
Lightning - extremely reliable - trust the Japanese brand YKK.
Mosquito net - with small cells.
Power plastic fittings are more reliable - trust Duraflex or Nexus.
The straps are light and strong. They should easily pass through the adjustment buckles.
Storm guy lines should be strong and thin, as well as visible in the dark and during the day.
Pegs - light and durable, rigid. It is desirable that they do not rotate in the ground, that is, they would not have a round profile.

I wish you a successful purchase, and rather run away, leave, fly away from the city to the bosom of mother nature, where we become her children - real people.

NORMAL

Troubadour 3

A classic tent with a large vestibule for any hikes. Tarpaulin: Taffeta PU. Breathable nylon inner tent. Bottom: Oxford PU nylon. All seams of the awning and the bottom are glued. Frame: aircraft aluminum 7075T6. Metal-polymer fittings. Sufficient wind resistance. The entrance of the inner tent is equipped with a mosquito net. Awning with a ventilation system that reduces the formation of condensate.

Capacity: 3 people

Packed/full weight: 4.0/4.5 kg.

Ladoga 3

Classic tent with two entrances and two vestibules for any trips. Awning: Taffeta PD. Inner tent: breathable nylon. Bottom: Oxford PU nylon. All seams of the awning and the bottom are glued. Frame: aircraft aluminum 7075T6. Metal-polymer fittings. High wind resistance. The entrances of the inner tent are equipped with a mosquito net. Awning with a ventilation system that reduces the formation of condensate.

Capacity: 3 people

Packed/full weight: 3.9/4.1 kg.

Price: 6 500 rubles. (05.11.2009)

Lotus 2

A classic tent with a vestibule for hiking in normal and advanced categories of difficulty. Tarpaulin: Taffeta PU. Inner tent: breathable nylon. Bottom: Oxford PU nylon. All seams of the awning and the bottom are glued. Frame: aircraft aluminum 7075T6. Metal-polymer fittings. High wind resistance. The entrance of the inner tent is equipped with a mosquito net. Awning with a ventilation system that reduces the formation of condensate.

Capacity: 2/3 people
Water resistance of the tent/bottom: 5000/8000 mm.
Packed/full weight: 3.3/3.7 kg.

Price: 5 300 rubles. (05.11.2009)

Diogenes 4

A classic half-barrel tent with a large vestibule and two entrances for any hikes. Tarpaulin: Taffeta PU. Inner tent: breathable nylon. Bottom: Oxford PU nylon. All seams of the awning and the bottom are glued. Frame: aircraft aluminum 7075T6. Metal-polymer fittings. High wind resistance. The entrances are equipped with a mosquito net.

Capacity: 4 people
Water resistance of the awning/bottom: 5000/6000 mm.
Packed/full weight: 4.8/5.4 kg.

Price: 8 200 rubles. (05.11.2009)

Neva 4

A classic model with large and small vestibules and two entrances for any hikes. Tarpaulin: Taffeta PU. Inner tent: breathable nylon. Bottom: Oxford PU nylon. All seams of the awning and the bottom are glued. Frame: aircraft aluminum 7075T6. Metal-polymer fittings. Sufficient wind resistance. The entrances are equipped with a mosquito net. Awning with a ventilation system that reduces the formation of condensate.

Capacity: 4 people
Water resistance of the awning/bottom: 6000/8000 mm.
Packed/full weight: 5.3/5.8 kg.

Price: 8 900 rub. (05.11.2009)

ALEXIKA

Trekking tent.
Inner tent: breathable polyester. Floor: 150 D Oxford PU 6000 mm. Tarpaulin: polyester 185T PU 4000 mm. Racks: arches from an aluminum alloy. The seams are sealed with heat-shrinkable polymer tape. two entrances; two vestibules; mosquito net; ventilation windows; shelf and ring for the lamp. Dimensions: awning (100 + 180 + 100) x 220 x 130 cm; inner patch - 180 x 220 x 130 cm. Size in case: 45 x 16 x 17 cm.

Capacity: 3 people
Water resistance of the tent/bottom: 4000/6000 mm.
Packed/full weight: 4 kg.

Price: 9 700 rubles. (05.11.2009)

For tracking.
Tarpaulin: polyester 185T PU 4000 mm. Inner tent: breathable polyester. Floor: 150 D Oxford PU 6000 mm. Racks: arches from an aluminum alloy. The seams are sealed with heat-shrinkable polymer tape. Two convenient entrances under the awning; mosquito net; ventilation windows; shelf and ring for the lamp. Dimensions: awning - (160 + 205) x 180 x 130 cm. Size in a cover: 45 x 15 x 16 cm.

Capacity: 3 people
Water resistance of the tent/bottom: 4000/6000 mm.
Packed/full weight: 4.3 kg.

Price: 10 700 rubles. (05.11.2009)

Explorer 2

Extreme Series.
Tarpaulin: polyester 185T PU 4000 mm. Inner tent: breathable polyester. Floor: 150 D Oxford PU 6000 mm. Racks: arches from an aluminum alloy. The seams are sealed with heat-shrinkable polymer tape. two entrances; two vestibules; snow skirt; increased wind resistance: mosquito net; ventilation windows; shelf and ring for the lamp. Dimensions: awning - (80 +150 +80) x 210 x 115cm; inner tent - 150 x 210 x 115 cm. Size with cover: 45 x 19 x 17 cm.

Capacity: 2 people
Water resistance of the tent/bottom: 4000/6000 mm.
Packed/full weight: 5.1 kg.

Price: 10 300 rubles. (05.11.2009)

Mirage 3

Extreme Series.
Tarpaulin: polyester 185T PU 3000 mm. Inner tent: breathable polyester. Floor: 150 D Oxford PU 6000 mm. Racks: arches from an aluminum alloy. The seams are sealed with heat-shrinkable polymer tape. two entrances; two vestibules; snow skirt; increased wind resistance: mosquito net; ventilation windows; shelf and ring for the lamp. Dimensions: awning - (100 +205 +50) x 200 x 110 cm; inner tent - 180 x 180 x 110 cm. Size with cover: 45 x 19 x 20 cm.

Capacity: 3 people
Water resistance of the awning/bottom: 3000/6000 mm.
Packed/full weight: 5.5 kg.

Maxima 6

Camping tent.
Tarpaulin: polyester 185T PU 4000 mm. Inner tent: breathable polyester. Floor: PE 10x12.145 g/m2. Racks: 11 mm fiberglass arches. The seams are sealed with heat-shrinkable polymer tape. Two inner tents; a large common vestibule in the middle; two entrances; three ventilation windows; two pockets in each tent. Dimensions: awning - (220 + 140 + 220) x 220 x 200 cm; inner tent - (160 + 60) x 220 x 200 cm. Size in case: 68 x 23 x 25 cm

Capacity: 6 people
Water resistance of the tent/bottom: 4000/6000 mm.
Packed/full weight: 13.5 kg.

Price: 16 500 rubles. (05.11.2009)

According to my personal experience of water and hiking: the lighter the weight, the easier it is to walk, so for hiking a dvushka tent with a plastic frame is suitable (unless of course you are in the mountains, you need duralumin for this)

For water, the tent should be light in weight, small in volume, with good resistance to moisture, easy to set up, so that it can be easily put up in the dead darkness in one. It is very convenient when the inner tent is attached to the awning and you can not unfasten it for installation and disassembly.

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