What is interesting on Trukhanov Island. Where to run in Kyiv: Trukhanov island. From the history of the island

The center of Kyiv, nature, clean air and 4 km of perfect asphalt - this is Trukhanov Island from Parkovoy to Moskovsky Bridge. A convenient place for speed training and as part of long runs routes. Popular with runners, cyclists, triathletes and rollerbladers.

Location

Trukhanov is located on the Dnieper directly opposite the historical center of Kyiv, the area of ​​the island is about 450 hectares. A bit like Margaret Island on the Danube in Budapest. The Hungarians turned Margaret into a park for recreation and sports with bike paths, tennis courts, swimming pools and thermal baths - it turned out great. Our island is no less picturesque, but rather neglected.

From the beginning of the 20th century until the Second World War, Trukhanov was inhabited, it had a central market square and several streets. During the war, the settlement was destroyed, and after it Trukhanov became a recreational area with beaches and holiday homes.

You can get to the island from Podol through the Park (Pedestrian) bridge, from Obolon, Petrovka or Troyeshchina - through the Moscow bridge. Formally, there is a pedestrian zone, the entry of cars is prohibited. Really - as usual, we do not have rules for everyone, so cars meet, but not much.

You can leave your car on Podil near Postal Square or in the parking lot at the entrance to the Peoples' Friendship Park if you drive from the Moscow Bridge.

Route options

You can also get to the bridge from Vladimirsky Spusk, along the stairs that lead to the column of Magdeburg Law.

Usually I run across the Parkovy Bridge, along the island to the Moscow Bridge and back. If you start on Naberezhno-Khreshchatyskaya, it turns out about 10 km.

Another option is a circular route: from Trukhanov to the Moscow bridge and back to Podol along Naberezhno-Rybalskaya (also about 10 km). However, this option is only suitable for early weekend mornings. The rest of the time, a fair portion of exhaust gases is guaranteed on the Moscow Bridge and Naberezhno-Rybalskaya.

Jogging on Trukhanov Island can be combined with the following routes:

Peculiarities

The island has an excellent asphalt road, cars come across, but occasionally. The relief is practically absent, apart from very smooth rifts.

In the mornings it is deserted and beautiful here, only sports-concerned citizens meet (my weakness is beautiful cyclists on highways 😉). However, at other times of the day there are few people on the island, with the exception of the area near the Park Bridge on summer weekends.

Delicious clean air is especially good in that part of the island where pine trees grow. There are a lot of trees, almost everywhere there is a shadow.

About dumb moments: near the bridges (Pedestrian, unfinished Podolsk-Voskresensky and Moscow) there is a possibility. Though I haven't seen them lately. Near the Park Bridge there are several gendeliks - dubious cafes, as well as dilapidated buildings. There is no lighting. It’s not worth running there in the evenings and in the dark, but in the morning it’s quite calm, no suspicious personalities were noticed.

There is a place in Kiev that, if it were in China or Hong Kong, would by that time be the most beautiful people's park or garden, created by people for people, attracting millions of visitors. We are talking about Trukhanov Island, located a few hundred meters from the historical center of the city, connected by a bridge with the most picturesque Dnieper steeps. Today the island gives the impression of being abandoned. Here in the summer heat there are still many vacationers on the beaches. But, rather, from hopelessness than from the attractiveness of this place. More and more areas fenced off with deaf fences, the remains of recreation centers from Soviet times, primitive infrastructure and a lot of garbage ...

Entry to the territory of Trukhanov Island from the side of the Moscow Bridge is limited, as evidenced by the sign “Entry is prohibited”. But, as is customary in Ukraine, signs live their lives, and people live theirs. They're coming. At the same time, the island is the communal property of the Kyiv community, therefore, the expediency of such a sign is doubtful.

Life has been on the island since time immemorial, and it still exists today. One of its manifestations is at the side of the road leading into the interior of the island.

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There are several beautiful lakes on the territory of the island, in summer their shores are overflowing with vacationers and ... garbage. Well, our people simply cannot leave traces of their presence. At the same time, they are quite satisfied with the fact that they will return here more than once ... to rest.

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Sports and recreation base of the Soviet era…

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No one took down the playful posters that previously served to maintain a good mood for vacationers:

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Below is a poster - a more recent performance and all on the same topical topic of “ability”, unfortunately, most of our compatriots to clog everything around them.

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And another manifestation of optimism:

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Go ahead. On the way - a monument of modernity - the long-term construction of the Podolsk bridge. An excellent and vital solution to the transport problem between the center, Podil and the Troeshchinsky massif is dead weight. Yes, the crisis interfered in some way, but is it just a crisis?

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Look how massive the building is, how much money has already been spent. And how the people of Kiev miss this bridge!

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Some metal structures (I am an amateur in bridge building) are already collapsing…

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Some have never been used:

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A long-term construction project over the Dnieper froze ...

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Some kind of life is glimmering at the base of the bridge, but is it connected with its further construction?

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Artificial Drainage Canal overlooking the Matveevsky Bay of the Dnieper, used for training rowers:

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The remnants of former luxury: a restaurant with a name unknown to me. Older Kievans recall how difficult it was to book a table in this restaurant:

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Today, the "golden place" is empty, waiting for a new owner. Or elimination:

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And the old design "falls":

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Once a famous place where you could rent beach accessories (sheets, wooden sunbeds, limited - folding beds and canvas umbrellas). There was even a sign in English. Sad sight...

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The famous pedestrian Park Bridge. Built in 1957. Literally a few minutes walk - and you are at the Arch of Friendship of Peoples or at the monument to Vladimir the Great. During my student days, young and in love, we often rushed to Khreshchatyk, and from there to the Pedestrian Bridge.

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View from the Park (Pedestrian) Bridge to the Gavansky Bridge:

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On Naberezhnoye Highway:

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To Podol, the river station and St. Andrew's Church:

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On Vladimirskaya Gorka:

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The last time the bridge was reconstructed back in 1983.

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This is what his designs look like today:

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I think you will be interested in information from the historical past of the island, which, in my opinion, conveys the atmosphere of that time.

“In the 19th century in Kyiv, the “home restaurant” on Trukhaniv Island was especially famous among the people of Kiev. Lithuanian Adam Dominikovich Gintovt, who had taken root in Kyiv, seeing many Kyivans with samovars on Trukhanov Island every Sunday, obtained permission from the Duma to set up a buffet. Companies of walkers bought whole buckets of fresh crayfish from him. Others drank tea at tables set right on the sand among the willow bushes. Somewhat later, the modest establishment of Gintovt was transformed into a "home restaurant". It was the same buffet with a slightly expanded menu: crayfish, fried chicken, beer and dairy products - sour cream, kefir, which was very fashionable at that time, koumiss. The status of a quiet “family restaurant” corresponded to the tastes of those citizens who avoided expensive park “voxals” and came to Trukhanov Island with whole families to breathe in the resinous smell of coastal willows, to listen to the splash of the oncoming wave.
Due to its special position on the island, the buffet became a favorite place for revelry and later transformed into a chic Hermitage restaurant. Adam Gintovt got rich. For better communication with the city, he arranged his own transportation across the Dnieper (first five kopecks both ways, then 10). For the entrance to the island, each was charged a fee of 20 kopecks. On clear summer days, hundreds of citizens came to the Hermitage. There were especially many visitors on Trinity. Party of vacationers arrived all day long. After the end of the festivities, they rushed back to Kyiv. Steamboats scurried along the Dnieper all night. The last visitors left the island at dawn.
There is nothing left of a quiet family restaurant. In its place, a noisy, crowded entertainment venue has appeared, competing with the best paid parks in the center of Kyiv. But Gintovt did not calculate his strength. Old visitors no longer went to him, and new ones were in no hurry to leave other haunts for him. The chic halls of Trukhanov Island were gradually emptying. “The average public, which could not pay for such expensive undertakings,” wrote an eyewitness, “began to noticeably decrease, and it happened quite often that two orchestras of music thundered in a walk in bright electric light, and the audience was literally not a soul; in the garden there are only sad lackeys with dirty napkins under their arms. In the end, Gintovt went bankrupt.

The story of the "Hermitage" is very revealing for the old Kyiv. The mores of the Robinsons were closer to the majority of the townspeople than the unbridledness of the nouveau riche. If Gintovt really loved and appreciated the splash of the Dnieper wave, silence and solitude, he would never have lost his capital. But he neglected the tastes of the city's "savages" and paid dearly for it."

Unfortunately, today there are hundreds of hectares of a beautiful island in the middle of the Dnieper, in the very center - the heart! - Kyiv does not make the ancient city happy. And judging by the urban arbitrariness that the people of Kiev are now powerlessly observing, Trukhanov will face the sad fate of the other “green zones” destroyed in recent years.

Trukhanov island- an island on the Dnieper, located opposite the historical center of the city of Kyiv, between the main channel and the branch of the Dnieper Chertoroy.

The island is divided almost in half by the bays of Starik (now Matveevsky bay ) and the Old Woman.

The area of ​​Trukhanov Island is about 450 hectares, it is connected to the right bank of the Dnieper by a pedestrian bridge.

It is believed that the name Trukhanov Island comes from the name of the Polovtsian Khan Tugorkhan, since at the end of the 11th century it was the residence of his daughter, the wife of the Kyiv prince Svyatopolk. During the time of Kievan Rus, there was also a settlement of Olzhishi on Trukhaniv Island, owned by Princess Olga. In 1534 the island passed into the possession of the Pustynno-Nikolsky Monastery. But more than a hundred years passed, and the island was again returned to the city, in whose possession it remained until the middle of the 19th century and was used mainly for hay. After the construction of a steam mill and ship repair workshops on its territory in 1856, a settlement arose, which was nicknamed Trukhanov Island.

In the middle of the 19th century, the first buildings appeared on it, and in the second half of the 19th century, the First and then the Second Directorate of the shipping company with workshops, a yacht club, the Hermitage park and the Bosphorus restaurant were located on the island.

The Hermitage Park was popular due to the cafeteria theater that existed there. At that time it was one of the most popular places among the Kyiv nobility.

Also on the island there was a summer building of the Kyiv yacht club, workshops of local steamship companies (in the Starika Bay) and several summer cottages. In 1898, in honor of the opening of the yacht club, Emperor Nicholas II visited Trukhanov.

In 1920-1930. about 4 thousand people lived here, had its own church - St. Catherine, wound about 20 streets and alleys.

It was believed that Trukhanov Island was located within the boundaries of the Slavic Podil, this is exactly what the "Sputnik around the city of Kyiv" wrote earlier under the publication of Boguslavsky. The beautiful island, located opposite the city marinas and separated from the left bank of the Dnieper by the Chertorsem branch, beckoned the people of Kiev to its expanses. In the middle of the island there was Dolobskoye Lake, on the shores of which, it was believed, " in the old days, the princes of Kyiv and Chernigov with their squads gathered for meetings among themselves on issues of national importance and for negotiations on war and peace with the nomadic people, the Polovtsy".

In 1943, the Germans burned down the settlement during the defense of Kyiv from the advancing Soviet army. Perhaps for the sake of providing a strategically important overview.

After numerous historical twists and turns, since the late 1940s, the island began to be actively ennobled. Tens of thousands of trees and bushes have been planted and beaches have been improved. Large Kyiv factories and sports societies have opened water-sports bases here - with summer plywood houses, rental of boats, scooters, yachts.

Until 1957, until the Park Bridge was built between Naberezhnye Highway and Trukhanov Island, crossing the Dnieper to the left-bank bases and sandy beaches was a big inconvenience. Therefore, the city authorities launched boats, popularly nicknamed "bast shoes" for their characteristic shape. On Sundays, the busiest street in Podol was the Heroes of Trypillya Street - it was she who led to the pier of the crossing. After standing in a long line, the people of Kiev crossed to the island, where warm velvety sand, branches of weeping willows, generous sun and gentle water were waiting for them. From here a beautiful view of the forested steeps, the golden domes of churches and the Dnieper distance opened.

Of the well-known writers, Kuprin speaks most affectionately about the island, calling it a “trash”. And the Ukrainian poetess Lina Kostenko wrote about Trukhanov Island:

“I heard the month with a golden whiff

scary legends about princes and khans,

and having spilled the old fisherman Trukhan ...

Trukhaniv Island, Tugorkhaniv Island…”

Now Trukhanov Island is one of the most popular summer vacation spots among Kyivans, especially among young people.

Today it has large beaches (including Central, Dovbychka), water stations, sports facilities, restaurants, holiday homes and many green spaces.

At the extreme southern tip of Trukhanov Island is the most famous Kiev nudist beach. You can get to it in two ways: by land, passing from the Pedestrian Bridge to the end of Trukhanov Island, or by water, crossing for a small fee on a motor boat from the beach on Dolobetsky Island in Hydropark.

In Matveevsky Bay there are sports bases for rowing, canoeing and kayaking. The bay is called that because it was once owned by the rector of Kyiv University Matveev.

An artificial drainage channel was created to train canoe and kayak rowers. A very beautiful place!

And, of course, the pedestrian bridge, which is long overdue for repair or even reconstruction.

How to get there:

The nearest metro station is Postal Square. From it you need to go along the embankment to the nearest bridge, which will turn out to be the pedestrian one.

For those who are by car, check-in to Trukhanov Island from the Moscow Bridge.

There are places in the capital where I did not reach. Here, acquaintances and friends are surprised when I say that I have never walked along the Dnieper Islands (Park "Friendship of Peoples", Hydropark, Trukhanov Island) and along the bridges across the Dnieper. Although I have heard about these islands of untouched nature. In particular, about Trukhanov Island and the Pedestrian Bridge. Well, of course, there are no trolleybuses and buses. Drive far. Getting there is inconvenient. "Bayan" places. And the fact that there are beaches, cafes is not very interesting. Yes, and secluded places can be found in other places in Kyiv. Well, that's...

1. Abandoned rotunda cafe.

I would never have visited Trukhanov Island if not for the Podolsky Bridge. Planned to take a picture of him from the island. And I didn’t plan to make a photo report about Trukhanov Island. It turned out the opposite.

But I visited a new area.

2. So on foot, along the former tram line.

3. Pedestrian bridge. I've watched it so many times from afar. Let's take a closer look.

4. "Slaughtered" place. Although it is beautiful, I do not argue.
It would be possible to admire, if not for the weather ...

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6. Embankment highway after the rain.
By the way, I got caught in the rain. I had to wait under the Pedestrian Bridge.

7. Behind the Metro bridge, it will probably rain.

8. River station. Reconstruction along with Postal Square.

9. Panorama of Podil.

10. Hem in a different color treatment :)

11. New Rybalsky bridge.

Now let's look at the other side.

12. Dnieper and Hydropark Island.

13. Panorama of the Dnieper towards the Metro bridge.

14. Mega poster on the shore of Trukhanov Island. What advertisers can't think of!

15. Bank on the left side of the bridge. People fish, sunbathe and swim. And he does not suspect that in 20 minutes everyone will be covered with rain.

Well, why not show the right bank of the Dnieper?

16. Arch of Friendship of Peoples.

17. Vladimir's Hill.

18. Embankment highway. Behind the Dnieper hills you can see the stadium "Dynamo" them. Lobanovsky.
Well, a rain cloud from above.

19. Trukhanov island. The road for cars across the Pedestrian bridge is blocked. At least something good.

20. Cable car station.

21. Monument to Swedish football fans who visited the 2012 European Football Championship in Kyiv. Appeased the Swedes (Ukrainian team won the match.).
For some reason behind the fence. So that's the only way to take a picture.

22. Monument to the deceased tourist.

23. Abandoned cafe. Then he hid in it from the rain.

24. The bridge of the bridge is crowded. A bunch of gendelyks. So there is a place to hang out :)

25. View in the opposite direction. Deep into the island.
There is litter next to the rubbish bins. Considering that this is the center of Kyiv, and even the park area, it somehow turns out ugly.

But there are monuments!

26. Monument to the inhabitants of the village, destroyed during the Great Patriotic War.

27. Not even a monument - a memorial.

28. Spring. Beautiful. The main thing is not to look at the sky. Another cloud is moving in from above. This time it's stormy.

29. An abandoned cafe of an unusual shape.

30. As expected, upset. But you can get in if you want.

31. It would be possible to wait in an abandoned place, but there is already someone there.

32. And around - flowering chestnut trees, cars and heaps of garbage.

33. Some kind of house.

I'm going back. But while in thought: to watch the island further, to wait out the impending rain, or to return home?
We decided to go to the bridge (we were not walking alone). But I didn’t take many pictures – the sky was covered with clouds, there was no time to be distracted by photography.

37. As soon as they came back, a heavy downpour began. I had to wait under an abandoned cafe.
It is clear that the further walk was in jeopardy. So, after waiting for the rain, I went home.
Well, at least the umbrella came in handy.

P.S.: What can I say about Trukhanov Island. Place of worship for the people of Kiev. In principle, an oasis in the middle of the metropolis, but ... A bunch of cafes, littered (it seems that the garbage is not taken out), abandoned and unkempt. It must be reckoned that the island is large, and there is no other transport, except for a foot bus.

In Kyiv there is such an area, which is located in the middle of the Dnieper current and just opposite the historical center of the capital, and is called Trukhanov island. The area of ​​this large green area is approximately 450 hectares, and the island is connected to the right bank of the Dnieper by a pedestrian bridge.

Previously, a tram line ran along the Dnieper embankment, and it was possible to take a tram to the Pedestrian Bridge, but after the tram route was closed in February 2011, now you can only get to it by walking from the station. m. "Postal Square" along the banks of the Dnieper. On this road to the island, you can see the Magdeburg Right column, which is located near the bridge.

History of Trukhanov Island

The historical name of the island is sometimes associated with the Polovtsian Khan Tugorkhan, and initially the island was called Tugorkhano, and over time and due to an evolutionary change in the language, the name was transformed into Trukhanov. There is even a legend that it was in these places that the estate of the daughter of the khan, who was the wife of the Kyiv prince Svyatopolk, was located.

In the 19th century, buildings and working settlements appeared on the island, and after a few decades, a full-fledged working settlement began to develop as a fairly independent suburb. Shipbuilding enterprises, the organization of a yacht club were located on Trukhanov, telephone communications were established, a stone church, a school-school were built, a market square was equipped, streets bearing geographical names were laid. In 1930, the population of the island was more than four thousand people.

The beach on Trukhanov, popular today, was first opened in 1918. After the complete destruction of the village by the Nazis during the Second World War, they decided to rebuild the island and equip it with a cultural recreation area.

Before the construction of the Kyiv hydroelectric power station and the damming of the Dnieper, the territory of Trukhaniv was completely flooded during spring floods.

Sights of Trukhanovy Island

This amazingly beautiful island attracts citizens and tourists, most of whom spend time on the beaches of Trukhanov. Today, there are large Kiev beaches on the island - the best Kiev Dovbychka beach, equipped with all amenities, Central, sports grounds, water stations, several restaurants, small cafes, rest houses and many green spaces.

In the northern zone of the island there is a recreational forest park "Friendship of Peoples" and a protected area "Tract Bobrovnya". At the end of Trukhanov Island there is a water sports center and a unique architectural complex - "Matveevsky Bay", which has sports facilities for rowing, kayaking, and canoeing.

How to get or how to get to Trukhanov Island:

Walk from st. m. "Postal Square" or "Dnepr".
For those who drive, you can drive to Trukhaniv from the Moskovsky Bridge.

Trukhanov island address:

Trukhanovskaya street.

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