Czech Switzerland, Grzhensko - on boats through the canyon. Bohemian Switzerland - the main attractions of the Czech Switzerland National Park in winter is it worth going

There are many interesting and picturesque corners on our planet, where once you get there, you want to return again and again. One of these places is Bohemian (Bohemian) Switzerland or, as the locals call it, Saxon Switzerland.

This park was founded not so long ago, at the beginning of the 2000s. Its territory is about 80 sq. km. When creating the park, the country's authorities wanted to preserve the area of ​​untouched nature in its original state. And they succeeded. It's amazing here Beautiful places with minimal human intervention.

The basis of the park is made up of unique sand formations in the form of rocks. The rocks are covered with ancient forests with rare plant species. It is believed that the rocks were formed about 10 million years, and over time, when the water receded, the rocks, on the contrary, protruded. These sandy deposits were compressed mainly during the Mesozoic period under the influence of wind, temperature changes and other natural phenomena.

Unique natural formations impress with their picturesqueness: canyons, arches, windows, etc. And the ruins of fortresses and other medieval buildings, which have been perfectly preserved to this day, fit very harmoniously into all this. Many photographers come here to capture the unique beauty of these places.

Story

For the first time this territory began to be inhabited by nomadic tribes of hunters and gatherers about 10 thousand years ago. They settled mainly near water bodies. Still locals after spring floods, ancient tools and utensils are discovered.

A little later, farmers began to settle in these places, for whom the lands along the tributaries of the river were the most fertile. Over time, to strengthen their settlements, people began to build walls and even build forts, the ruins of which are scattered throughout the national park.

In the 14th century, Saxon colonialists settled on these lands, who were engaged in logging. In those days, there were real impenetrable thickets here. They also settled here, in some places even the ruins of entire settlements with specific architecture remained.

But it was precisely two Swiss restorers who made this area touristic, who were invited to Dresden to restore one estate. During their vacation, they often walked along the modern territory of the national park from Dresden and admired the beauties of these places. And at the end of the work, they stayed here to live, because the local rocks very much reminded them of their native Switzerland. And so the name "Switzerland" got accustomed to this place. Since the end of the 18th century, this area has been called “Saxon Switzerland”.

In the 19th century, local communities opened the first tourist routes for travelers. The mining society of Bohemian Switzerland began to open the first hotels and restaurants here. They began to equip observation platforms and clear the most beautiful gorges. And on the Elbe River, everything was equipped for lovers of sailing. In general, everything was equipped for a comfortable stay of tourists in these places.

Where is

Conventionally, the park is divided into German and Czech parts, which are separated by the border between the states and the Elbe River in the west of the park.

Czech Switzerland is located in the northern part of the Czech Republic, close to the border with Germany and 40 km. from Dresden. The highest part of this park is Mount Dechinsky Snezhnik with a height of just over 700 meters. The most popular place among tourists is the Pravchitsky Gate, which was formed due to rain and severe erosion.

How to get there

In fact, there are only two options to get to this fabulous place: on your own in a rented or your own car, or with a guided tour. A guided tour can be bought at any travel agency in. The cost of such a tour is from 30 euros and more, depending on the number of people in the group. You will also have to pay separately for visiting certain attractions.

If you get there on your own, you can enter the park both from German territory and from the Czech Republic. You can enter the National Park in different ways: both along the autobahn and along ordinary roads. But it is worth using a map or navigator so as not to get lost.

You can also take a train from Prague to the city of Decin, and then go to the village of Khrzhensko by bus number 434.

When is the best time to go?

The park is open all year round. From November to March, the park is open from 10.00 to 16.00. And from April to October 10.00 - 18.00.

The most successful time to visit the park is spring and autumn, when it is not very hot, and you can spend a lot of time walking and relaxing.

The entrance ticket can be bought at the entrance to the park, it costs 70 crowns. Additional excursions will have to be paid separately. In the park you can go boating, with a sightseeing tour of the gorge, or visit the castles.

Tourism

The entire territory of the park is marked with special hiking trails, from which it is impossible to leave. Therefore, it is worth buying a map of the park immediately at the entrance. All trails are accessible. There are even routes for cyclists. You can rent a bike right in the park. There are also rock climbing areas in the park.

Fans of camping can spend the night immediately in the reserve, but this is allowed in special camp areas. Walking in the park is allowed even with pets, so you can safely bring your favorite pets for walking.

For more convenient rest in the reserve and search for places in the park, there are several tourist centers located in different parts of the park. Basic tourist centre located in Krasnaya Lipa. It is open daily from 9:00 a.m. until the park closes. There are also information centers in Khrzhensko, Saule, Serbian Kamenica.

When traveling to Czech Switzerland, you should definitely take comfortable shoes and clothes. It is hardly easy to get uphill in heels or tight trousers. Be sure to take a couple of bottles of water with you, as water is much more expensive in the park.

sights

The basis of the reserve is forests and rocks. But even in addition to the stunning beauty of landscapes, you can see architectural sights in the park.

Pravchitsky Gate

The main attraction of the park is the Pravchitsky Gate arch. The gate is the symbol of the park. Tourists tend to see this colorful and miraculous property. Nature has been creating this huge hole in the rock for many millennia. And only after passing through it, you can really admire the work of nature. From the observation deck near the arch, a stunning view of the canyon from below opens. But climbing to the top of the arch is strictly prohibited.

Falcon's Nest Castle

This castle is located near the Pravchitsky Gate. It was built in 1881 by a noble Czech family, literally within a year. The walls of the castle are built into the rock, which gives it an extraordinary charm and simplicity. High-ranking guests have always been received here. The castle has ancient interiors and a restaurant decorated in the style of the Middle Ages. The view from the restaurant is amazing, but the menu is scarce, but with greatly inflated prices for dishes.

Ruins of Schaunstein Castle

They are another picturesque place that deserves attention. Once upon a time, barons engaged in robbery lived in this place. The barons themselves did not build the castle, they simply captured the already built defensive fort and firmly settled in it, changing its name to the "castle of thieves". You can climb to the ruins through a narrow gorge along a steep staircase thrown over a cliff. Today, tourists come here to see the beautiful views that open from the observation deck near the ruins.

Canyons of the Kamenitsa River

For a fee, you can see the beauty of the canyons from the gondola. During this journey, you can see a man-made waterfall leading to a cave with a pirate castle.

Dolskaya mill

This is another picturesque place, but it is located in a dense forest, and it is impossible to see the surroundings from it. The ruins of the fortress are used as scenery in films. By the way, it is believed that it was thanks to the films that this place became famous. The mill operated from the end of the 14th century and was destroyed for many years due to the impact of natural phenomena. But having declared this area a reserve, the restorers took up the mill. And in 2007, the mill became a national architectural monument.

royal spruce

Not far from the Dolskaya mill there is an ancient fir tree, which is over 180 years old, and the tree trunk has grown to a width of more than three meters. Spruce is protected by the state no less than other monuments.

Falkenstein Castle

This is one of the oldest places in the park. The castle was built in 1394 on a high hill. This building was built for the purpose of defense against robbers. Climbing the walls of this castle was very difficult. Many parts of this castle are perfectly preserved, as they were carved into the rocks. Several legends are associated with it, one of which says that the robbers who wanted to capture this castle were caught. Then hanged. And soon angry dogs began to run around the castle, which can be found today in the vicinity of the castle. Local residents believe that these are the very robbers who are trying to take revenge on their killers.

mouse hole

Such a strange name has a staircase that leads to the top of the hill through a narrow gorge. There are a lot of steps at the stairs, and many tourists who go down the back constantly shout “Wow!”. It's hard to say why, but perhaps they admire their excellent physical shape. Initially, the locals called this staircase the staircase of the Angels. But the owner of the estate did not like the name, and he renamed it in his own way.

Chrzypska

Everyone has heard about Bohemian glass, but no one knows that it is not made in Bohemia, but in a workshop in Czech Switzerland in the village of Chrzypska. Since the 14th century, the very Bohemian glass that was admired before and admired to this day has been produced here. Today, excursions are not taken to the production, but in the village you can buy products made from real Bohemian glass for almost a penny.

Viewpoint Belvedere

This is a huge rocky terrace located above the canyon of the Laba River. The platform height is 130 meters. Not far from the site, the Belvedere Hotel was built, from the windows of which stunning views of the surroundings open. This site is considered the very first observation deck in Bohemian Switzerland. It was built by the owners of the estate, who owned almost the entire part of modern Czech Switzerland.

Silver mines of Jiržetin pod Jedlová

Precious metals have been mined in the ancient Mines of these mines for a long time. Today, in order to feel the spirit hovering in the dungeon, you can put on a mining helmet with a lantern and go down into the mine tunnels. these mines first opened in 1474. Silver and copper have been mined in the mines for over two hundred years. But the Thirty Years' War forced the owners to cover their booty. When mining resumed several decades later, it turned out that it was no longer profitable and the mines were closed again. Today, tour groups lead here, showing and telling in detail how the process of mining takes place.

What else to see?

• You should definitely visit the city of Decin, which is located in the vicinity of Czech Switzerland. The main attraction of the city is the Decin Castle, built in the 8th century. At various times, the Castle was both a military and defensive structure, and the residence of aristocratic families and even monarchs. The city also has a small zoo and water park.

Video trip to Decin:

• Khrzhensko is a small village, from which all excursions to Czech Switzerland begin. This is a nice and very hospitable place where you can relax and drink real Czech beer with German sausages. The village is located along the river Kamenitsa. The city is known for selling gnomes for gardens at almost every step, of various types, sizes, colors and for every taste.

A trip to Czech Switzerland is a solitude with nature, acquaintance with unusual sandy cliffs and a great chance to get acquainted with the sights created by Mother Nature herself.

There are places where this amazing piece of land looks like a land hidden from mankind and preserved in its original beauty.

This exceptional natural treasure even made it to Yosemite National Park and South America's Galapagos Islands on the Must-visit 501 - Wild places travel list.

However, a closer acquaintance will allow us to make sure that this region is by no means as uninhabited and pristine as it seems at first glance. Moving through its territory, you will find out that among the deep gorges and high cliffs there are many surprises. The local cliffs are surrounded by steep steps, and on the peaks one can see lonely ruins, covered with legends about robber knights, fairies and giants. With all this, the road to this quietest fabulous land from the noisy metropolitan Prague takes no more than two hours.

Walk on the sea floor

The Czech Switzerland National Park is the youngest of the four national parks in the Czech Republic. You will find it on the border with Germany, which separates "Bohemian Switzerland" from its twin, "Saxon Switzerland". Millions of years ago, the sea stretched here. Having subsided, it left behind a unique region, which, being the lowest point in the Czech Republic, resembles mountains. This land of high sandstone cliffs and towers, rocky arches, ravines and mountains with truncated peaks served as a refuge for ancient people more than 10,000 years ago. In the 13-14 centuries, German settlers began to build villages and entire future cities here, fortresses of knights grew on the rocks, who often engaged in robbery. In troubled times, local residents hid here from the armies marching along this region during the wars, which were never lacking near the historical border between the Czech and German lands. Until now, you will find here many reminders of these distant events - inscriptions carved on the rocks by the villagers themselves, conciliatory crosses, rock chapels and abandoned church paths.

Photos: ( Martin Rak,Vaclav Sojka)

Artists, poets and early travelers

The wild nature and hidden beauty of the region, which for a long time developed without human intervention, were discovered at the end of the 18th century by two Swiss artists of the Romantic era - Adrian Zingg and Anton Graf. Depicting this region in engravings and describing it in verse, they spread its rapidly growing fame throughout Europe. The sites along the Elbe Canyon have become the cradle of modern tourism, becoming one of the first heavily visited tourist attractions in Europe. For the beauty and mystery of Czech Switzerland rushed more and more visitors. Caspar David Friedrich, one of the most famous landscape painters of all time, also came here for the motives of his paintings. The owners of the local estates understood the attractiveness of the local dense forests, as well as the romantic outlines of the rocks, and made a lot of efforts to make them as accessible as possible by building roads and bridges. Steps were made on the Mariana Rock, the Wall of Velhelm and the Stone of Rudolf, benches were placed, and gazebos were placed on the tops. Along the roads, new taverns and places for lodging for the night were opened for tourists, walking paths appeared, and the wild river Kamenice was used to move between the gorges.

Not only artists, but also famous poets, writers, composers came to these virgin lands for their stories and legends. The fortresses of the robber knights, rocky places, legends about gnomes and fairies influenced celebrities, including the storyteller Hans Christian Andersen, the poet R.M. Rilke, composers K.M. von Weber, Richard Wagner and others.

Czech Switzerland in the memoirs of G.Kh. Andersen and R.M. Rilke

The poet R. M. Rilke visited Jetrchichovice in 1892 and recalls his visit in the following way: “I want, dear reader, to take you to the land where mighty giant rocks open their giant gray crowns from a dark fir forest, and meadows dotted with flowers dreamily stretch along a murmuring stream. …. Throughout the area, thousands of roads beckon deep into the mysterious wilderness. Everything here attracts to sweet, carefree rest - and already today. Long hollows with moss cushions and heather carpets resemble purple featherbeds, trees look like a majestic canopy, and tall fern fans breathe blissful freshness.

Passionate traveler Hans Christian Andersen even captured his impressions of the road from his native Copenhagen to the Czech Republic in the book " Shady pictures of a journey through the Harz and Saxon Switzerland». Emotionally and romantically, in the spirit of his era, he perceives both the country and the people he met on his way. He spent only a few hours in the Czech Republic, comparing it with the well-known tune that sounds inside us, full of life: “In my recollections, this beautiful land spread out, flooded with sunlight. I clearly see every detail of it, in my soul it is like a beautiful melody, despite the fact that I cannot express it in separate tones and motives.

I see this big edge in the forest with huge spruce trees, where we were told that we had just crossed the border, I see heavily tanned Czech girls with white headscarves and bare feet that we met in a dark spruce forest, and, finally, the pristine a section of the Pravchitsky Gate rocks, where we stood under a stone arch thrown over our heads by the mighty genius of nature. I see vast dark forests somewhere below us and distant mountains with snow shimmering in the sun.

Photo: (Vaclav Sojka)

And today the Pravchitsky Gate conquers artists, including the creators of fairy tales. Film director "The Chronicles of Narnia - The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe" found in the snow-covered Silent Rocks the ideal scenery for his interpretation of this story. Andrew Adamson chose Tisza because of the abundance of snow cover and unrealistically beautiful terrain with a natural labyrinth of rocks, where even in the 19th century few people dared to enter without a guide. Thus, he wanted to get as close as possible to the world that S.K. Lewis created with his imagination on the pages of books. It was here that Lucy visited the cave of the Faun Tumnus, and all four brothers and sisters crossed the rocky bridge for the first time and looked at the endless forests of Narnia.

The rock city of the Til Walls and in general the whole of Bohemian Switzerland today is a real paradise for tourists and climbers. The first sports trips to the tops of the rocks took place already at the beginning of the 20th century. Since then, there have been many climbing trails. Climbing is possible on the various mountain towers of the rocky town with the poetic names "Baldur's Needle", "Golem", "Forest Drop", "Stone of the Wise Men", "Rudolfinum".

© Martin Rak

The once quite extensive fortress of the 13th century became the residence of Michel Blekta from Utěchovice two centuries later, who with his retinue carried out robbery raids on the surroundings. At the end of the 15th century, the fortress fell into decay, since the 19th century this place became available to the public.

© Franta Krivan

Sometimes also called the Robber Fortress, it is one of the most beautiful rock fortifications in Bohemian Switzerland. Since the turn of the 14th and 15th centuries, it has guarded the so-called "Czech Highway" - an important trade route connecting the Czech Republic and Lausitz. The owners of the Berkov fortress from Dube earned themselves the unflattering reputation of robbers, and the fortification itself served as a refuge for them to carry out robbery raids around. At the end of the 15th century, the object was abandoned and gradually fell into disrepair.
Definitely worth climbing to the top of the fortress, not only to get to know the ruins of the fortifications, but also because of the magnificent view that opens up from the top.

© Ladislav Renner

At the top of the cliff, already many thousands of years ago there was a cave of ancient hunters. The fortress, which originally stood here, was built in the 13th century and gradually changed several owners, among whom a robber knight appeared, was surrounded and burned several times. In the 17th century, hermits settled here, who lived on top of the rock for more than a hundred years. Later, Count Kinsky rebuilt the fortress into a place of country rest for his guests. Among the visitors are the names of Archduke Franz Karl and Stephen of Habsburg, the Saxon King Friedrich August, and in 1847 the future Emperor Franz Joseph I visited with his brothers.

© Jiri Stejskal

Once a Gothic fortress, over the centuries it became both the residence of a noble family and the refuge of robber knights. The current ruins are still covered with many stories and legends. Here, supposedly, the ghosts of the White Lady and the big black dog appear, the dungeon is riddled with a labyrinth of secret passages, and in front of the fortress there is a spring, with the water of which particles of gold scatter; in the stream you can find rare and precious stones.

On a boat to the end of the world

One of the main attractions of Bohemian Switzerland, which, according to the authors of the book 501 Wildplaces, should not be left unattended along with the Pravcicki Gate, is also a romantic boat trip through the Silent and Wild Canyons on the Kamenica River. We are talking about a short but impressive boat trip with a gondolier between two sheer cliffs - in some places it is so deep that direct sunlight rarely gets here.

© Tomas Pavlasek

In Czech Switzerland - the first observation deck, the creation of which had a hand in man. It offers breathtaking views of the deep canyon of the Elbe River, as well as the German mesas of Zirkelstein and Kaiserkrone. Once upon a time, concerts in the bosom of nature were held on this site of the Clari-Aldringen. By their order, the “terrena” hall, a small estate nearby and, a little later, a 4-kilometer path for carriages, leading then to their palace in the village of Bynovets, were built. Now this route is marked with tourist marks.

© Vaclav Sojka

One of the largest natural rock arches on our continent, without a doubt, the most beautiful natural formation in Bohemian Switzerland and a recognizable symbol of the entire region at first sight. Since 1881, the Falcon's Nest summer estate has been inseparably connected with the Pravchitsky Gate, originally used to accommodate honored guests of the Clari-Aldringen family. Today, the National Park Museum is located on the second floor of the building, and on the first floor there is a preserved stylish restaurant with its original design.

© Vladimir Pešek

The length of the labyrinth of underground passages is 4,500 meters. At the end of World War II, they were laid by prisoners of the Flossenbürg and Rabstein concentration camps. The underground plant produced parts for airplanes, cannons, machine guns and air missiles. During the construction of the underground factory, several dozen prisoners died. Today, the Museum of the concentration camp is located here.

© Jiri Stejskal

Treasure of Northern Bohemia of the Baroque era, designed by the architect Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt. At the place of pilgrimage in the name of the Blessed Virgin Mary, which is already three hundred years old, liturgies, services in honor of the procession and the Holy Stairs are held.

© Vaclav Sojka

With its expressive outlines and, above all, an excess of up to 300 m compared to the rest of the terrain, it creates a bright dominant of the region. With a height of 619 m above sea level, the so-called Czech Fuji is the most high point National Park Bohemian Switzerland, and in the area Czech-Saxon Switzerland- the second highest mountain after Dechinsky Snezhnik. It is likely that at one time pagan rites were performed here, and there was also a place of pilgrimage. The German tribes allegedly worshiped the Ruzhovsky hill as the abode of the gods. In many paintings, the motif of this mountain is noticeable - for example, “Traveler over the Sea of ​​Fog” (Poutník nad mořem mlh) (1818) by the German artist Gaspard David Friedrich.

Once upon a time, this was a serious obstacle that the inhabitants of local villages on the right bank had to somehow overcome when they wanted to get to the church in the village of Růžová on the other side of the river. At the same time, wood has been floated along the majestic river routes since time immemorial, and in winter, when trout and salmon abounded in the local waters, they became a paradise for fishermen. One day in 1877, in the U Zeleného stromu tavern in the town of Hřensko, five daredevils made a bet that they would sail on rafts from the Dolsky mill to the place that was then called "the end of the world." On swimming structures 4 meters long, they, indeed, safely reached Grzhensk, in fact, becoming the founders of the tourist use of these waterways. Prince Clari-Aldringen invited specialists from Italy, under whose leadership, over two hundred workers made these sites accessible to the public. Suspension bridges and bridges were thrown here, tunnels were laid with the help of explosives. On May 4, 1890, the opening of the "Quiet" ("Edmond's") canyon took place in a solemn ceremony. Since then, "at the very end of the world", in fact, nothing has changed much, the beauties of nature remain untouched, and carriers, as more than 130 years ago, drive and guide their boats with poles.

Photo: (Jerzy Strzelecki, Václav Sojka)

How to get to Saxon Switzerland

The Saxon Switzerland National Park is located on the border of Germany and the Czech Republic on the German side and is a mountain forest massif of the Elbe sandstone mountains. The colors of the mountains are given by their bizarre shape, formed under the influence of the "blowing effect", in addition, there are numerous historical monuments, including the most ancient and picturesque ones - the Bastei Bridge and the Königstein Fortress. The national park is very popular among all lovers of natural attractions and is one of the most visited parks in Germany.

The Saxon Switzerland National Park is located 125 km from Prague and 30 km from Dresden, so most of the tourists come to the park from these large cities. Often group excursion tours to Saxon Switzerland are organized from Prague or Dresden, but you can also get to the park on your own. The infrastructure of the park itself is highly developed, it is convenient for people with various abilities to move around here, and climbing the mountains along specially designed routes will not be tiring.

How to get to Saxon Switzerland from Prague

The most convenient way to get from Prague to Saxon Switzerland is by rented car. Travel time will take no more than 1 hour 20 minutes, and along the way you can see picturesque natural places. Prague and the park are connected by highway No. E55. At Please note that you will have to cross the state border to enter the National Park, so check with the rental office if this requires an additional permit for the rental car.

You can also get to the park from Prague by public transport. The closest settlements to Prague are the resort villages of Rathen and Bad Schandau. By the way, if you wish, you can stay here longer, because the resorts offer climate and mineral therapy. Trains run from Prague to the Rathen Kurort and the town of Bad Schandau, to Bad Schandau - direct (about 2 hours on the way), to the Rathen resort - with a transfer (about 3 hours on the way). You can check the train schedule and buy tickets online on the website or OBB. From Rathen you can start your hiking trip to Saxon Switzerland, while from Bad Schandau you will have to use the local bus.

In addition, you can take a ready-made bus tour from Prague to the park. Bus and walking tours are in Russian and last a total of approximately 10 hours. Thanks to the tour, you will be able to see all the most beautiful places in the natural park, including the observation deck on the Elbe River, without the need for transfers, as is the case with public transport. The tour can be found on site or booked in advance at specialized services, such as and others similar.

How to get to Saxon Switzerland from Dresden

Getting to Saxon Switzerland is even easier from Dresden. Direct trains run between Dresden and the Rathen or Bad Schandau resorts, the travel time is only half an hour. Trains run every hour throughout the day. You can check the train schedule and buy tickets online on the website . Next, from the Rathen resort station, you need to go to the pier, buy tickets for the local ferry across the Elbe (travel time is about 5 minutes).

Once on the other side of the Elbe, you will see the picturesque Elbe Mountains right in front of you, the hiking routes of which will lead you to their summit. In the park, you should move around, focusing on the signs, they are placed almost everywhere, and it is difficult to get lost here. In addition, there are a lot of tourists in the park almost at any time of the year (in winter, during snowfalls, the park may be closed).

Where to stay in Saxon Switzerland

The National Park "Saxon Switzerland" is quite extensive, there are many hiking trails that are enough for more than one day. If you plan to stay here longer, then it will be most convenient to stay in one of the nearest settlements not to return to Dresden or Prague. The nearest towns to the park are the resorts of Rathen (closer, within walking distance) and Bad Schandau (further, you need to get there by bus or train). Both resorts are quite intimate, traditional half-timbered architecture is presented here and there is all the infrastructure necessary for recreation.

So, for example, you can stay in the Rathen resort in hotels Elbiente 4* , Elbschlosschen 4* , Amselgrundschlossen 3*. The advantage of hotels is their location - in the center of the resort, as well as the presence of restaurants and indoor pools on site. You can stay in rooms of various sizes. As a rule, Wi-Fi in the hotels of the resort is provided free of charge, and there are no problems in finding free parking if you travel by car.

In Bad Schandau, you can find an even larger list of accommodations, since the town is considered a thermal spa. Several thermal complexes specializing in the treatment and restoration of various diseases are located here at once. Bad Schandau is a year-round resort and is in stable demand among tourists. You can stay in Bad Schandau in hotels Steiger Ban Schandau 4* , Parkhotel Bad Schandau 4* , Elbhotel Bad Schandau 3*and others. A complete list of accommodation options in Bad Schandau can be found on the website Booking.com.

What to see in Saxon Switzerland

The Saxon Switzerland National Park is extremely rich in sights. They are based on Elbe sandstone mountains, having a peculiar shape, which, in turn, was created by nature itself over many millennia by blowing and erosion. The landscape of the National Park is very diverse. On specially laid routes, you can see not only the mountain range, but also fabulous forests overgrown with boxwood, waterfalls, as well as some historical sights, such as Königstein fortress and old bastei bridge, which connects the mountain peaks of the same name, the highest in the park.

Inside the park, there are many hiking trails designed for different levels of training and different times. The most popular route is the ascent to Mount Bastei with an inspection of the bridge of the same name, as well as a route to Fortress Königstein. Both places are extremely picturesque, as they are located on the edge of rocky cliffs. Both the bridge and the fortress offer panoramic views of the mountains, the Elbe River and Rathen.

In addition to the Bastei mountain itself with an ancient bridge and the Königstein fortress, you can also see other sights on the territory of Saxon Switzerland. In particular, they include valleys, waterfalls, forests, canyons and caves. If you want to get away from popular routes, then the attention of travelers also deserves Lichtenhain Falls, Stolpen fortress, Kushtal rock gate, as well as "path of artists" with the most picturesque viewpoints.

It is worth noting that the entrance to the Saxon Switzerland National Park is free. Only ferry services across the Elbe and entrance tickets to the Königstein fortress are paid (8-10 euros depending on the time of year).

In general, we can say that the Saxon Switzerland National Park is a great alternative for a day trip from Prague or Dresden. It is here that you can “change” urban landscapes for natural ones and enjoy some of the most amazing views in Europe. In addition, there are all the opportunities to stay in the scenery of nature for as long as possible - in the immediate vicinity there are resorts Rathen and , which also offer many opportunities for leisure.

Saxon Switzerland and Dresden are frequent day trips from Prague, both popular destinations with travelers. About, , On a note :

Going on a trip to Europe, do not forget to take out a travel insurance policy, which is mandatory already at the stage of applying for a tourist visa. You can take out insurance on your own without leaving your home. For this, there are special services, such as , other. You can buy a policy online and then print it on a regular printer.

Photo at the beginning of the article: Bernd Thaller

We learned about Saxon Switzerland quite by accident, Pasha came across an article describing a trip to Saxon Switzerland with impressive photos. I decided to see what it is and where. It turned out that national park Saxon Switzerland is located near Dresden, right on the border with the Czech Republic. And on the Czech side, the park is called Bohemian Switzerland.

The park is not very big, but it has a lot of trekking routes and you can easily spend at least a whole week. But thinking that a week of vacation is an unaffordable luxury, we decided that we would go to Saxon Switzerland somehow just for a long weekend.

How to get to Saxon Switzerland?

The easiest way is by car. In this case, moving between routes and attractions in the park will be easy and convenient. The only downside is that you need to plan either round trip or roundabout routes to get back to the car.

It is also possible to get and move around by public transport. On the German side, the nearest major city is Dresden, on the Czech side, Prague. Both of them provide easy access to the park. But on the spot, in order to get to the start of routes from the surrounding towns and villages, you will have to find out the schedule of local buses and trains.

Where to stay near Saxon Switzerland?

If you are by car, then this issue is not so acute. From any village you can easily get where you need to go.

If you are traveling by public transport, then on the Czech side, Decin (Děčín) or Hřensko are good choices. Decchin is larger, but from it you have to go to the park. But several routes start directly from Hřensko, including one of the most famous ones to Pravčická brána.

From the German side, there are several options. If you want to visit the Bastei Bridge and take a walk in its surroundings, Rathen or Bad Schandau are the best choices. If you want to walk along other routes of the park, then you need to choose something from the villages close to the route. Almost all have small family hotels where you will feel like a real German.

We had to stay two nights over a holiday weekend plus we were in a car and weren't tied to buses. After looking at the options on Booking.com and Airbnb (we wrote more about what airbnb is in the article Airbnb - what is it? How to use and how to book accommodation in any city?), we chose accommodation on airbnb in Decin, but for now we thought this apartment already passed. Therefore, the next suitable for the price, comfort and location was a room in a family hotel in the village of Česká Kamenice.

What to do in Bohemian and Saxon Switzerland?

1 full day - Czech Switzerland

The route starts in the village of Mezni Louka and gradually climbs towards Pravcicka Brana. On the way there is a beautiful forest, rocky walls, separate rocky remnants - in general, very beautiful!

Further Pravcicka Brana and the building of the 19th century - the Falcon's Nest. Login to observation decks 75 CZK. On the official website you can check the opening hours and current prices www.pbrana.cz. Most can be viewed for free, so it's up to you to decide whether to go to the paid part.

After this trail, you can go to Mezni Louki through the forest, or you can continue along the canyon just like we did. There is a second route Divoká soutěska and a second crossing - it will cost 60 CZK. We really liked the trail, it passes almost over the mountain stream itself, sometimes overhanging. There are beautiful rocks all around. On the first section there is a waterfall attraction - they bring you to a wet wall, tell some fairy tales, it depends on the boat manager, and then ... suddenly a powerful stream of water falls from the waterfall in a fountain. Nobody expected this...

During the boat trip, you will see not only a waterfall, but also beautiful wooden figures, each with its own history, you will be shown interesting rock formations that look like something or someone. The second part is less interesting, simply because it repeats the first. Although ... Whether nature can repeat itself in such unusual forms is a moot point. From the end of the second trail for another 20 minutes and we go to Mezni Loki, right to the central parking lot. By the way, parking is the most expensive "entertainment" - 100 CZK / 1 day.

Also this route can be passed from Grzhensko. You can go in the opposite direction, but I do not advise this, since the rise from Grzhensko is long and monotonous, it is much better to go down quickly there.

2 day or half day Saxon Switzerland and the famous Bastei Bridge

Most often, the route to the Bastei Bridge starts either at the Basteistrasse (Basteistraße) - in this case, parking will cost 3 € / day plus 1.5 € / person shuttle bass to the beginning of the route. The second option is the village of Rathen, almost all large parking lots are located in most of the village on the other side of the Elbe and you will have to use the ferry to get to the start of the route.

In the part of the village of Rathen, which is located on the same bank with the Bastei bridge, entry is allowed only to residents and hotel guests. However, the car can be left in private parking almost reaching the village. The cost is 3€/day.

Before the start of the route 15-20 minutes through a pleasant forest. At first, the signs took us to Basteistrasse, after looking at the prices, we returned to the idea that we would leave the car in the village itself. But ... we saw a sign forbidding passage to non-residents. Nearby was a private parking for 3€, but it was almost all occupied. Cars were parked on the side of the road, there was no sign prohibiting parking. Of course, we parked and went to the Bastei bridge.

Bastei is a group of sandstone rocks that, under the influence of time and nature, have taken on very beautiful and unusual shapes. Bastei is also famous for the Bastei Bridge. The Bastei bridge was built in 1824 and was originally made of wood. In 1851, the Bastei bridge was replaced by a sandstone bridge, and it has remained so to this day.

If you have at least 3-4 hours, then you should go not only to the Bastei Bridge, but also walk along the route further, go down to the Elbe and return to Rathen along the bike path.

We were not lucky on the first evening, the weather was not very good, and as soon as we began to climb to the bridge it began to rain ... Without thinking twice, we cast a cursory glance at the bridge and drove to the place to spend the night. The second attempt was in the morning before the trip home. The sun was shining and the weather was just perfect. But we had very little time, so we limited ourselves to walking to the Bastei bridge and all the observation platforms and back. This route took us about 2-2.5 hours of leisurely walk from the car. There is an optional paid section on the route, the cost is 2€/person. The route passes along bridges between rocks. There is a description of several historical details, though little of them remains. But beautiful views of the Bastei bridge and the surrounding rocks.

By the way, the most famous photos of the Bastei Bridge are taken from free viewing platforms. True, fog or beautiful sunset / dawn rays must be specially waited for. Although you might be lucky?

As a result, I would like to say that if you are in the vicinity, and you have a free 1-2 days, then you should definitely visit Czech and Saxon Switzerland!

The Czech Republic is not offended by mountains. The Czech mountains, of course, are low, but picturesque. And one mountainous area even got the name "" ( České Švýcarsko). Eco wonder, you say, the labels "Switzerland" and "Venice" are the most common. A little city in the canals - right there "Venice". And if the area is hilly - "Switzerland", of course.

As for Czech Switzerland, in this case the Swiss themselves likened this corner of the Ore Mountains to their Switzerland. Swiss artists arrived in Dresden to restore paintings in the Dresden Gallery and found an extremely attractive place in the vicinity of the Elbe: sharp sandstone cliffs, deep canyons, forested hills. “Well, like we have in Switzerland,” said the artists. And so it happened.

On the Czech side, the national park "Czech Switzerland" was formed. And on the other side of the Elbe - "Saxon Switzerland". We visited both there and there. In this article I will talk about our walk in Czech Switzerland, and in the next - about Saxony.

We left Prague around 8 in the morning and two hours later we were already approaching the Czech-German border. The river (in Czech Laba), along which the border of countries passes, looks very romantic in this place: it is not narrow and not wide, it flows among the wooded mountains, houses are visible in some places along its banks, but in general the place seems secluded and quiet .

City of Grzhensko

Our goal - city ​​of Grzhensko, which stands at the confluence of the Kamenitsa River with the Laba. Hiking trails through the Bohemian Switzerland National Park start from Hřensko.

Pier near Grzhensko

Along the edges of the gorge, like entrance towers, there are two hotels. The Labe Hotel looks especially impressive - it seems that it is leaning against a rock.

The hotel opposite is more modest

We turn right and move along the Kamenitsa River.

The city of Grzhensko begins with long shopping arcades. The Vietnamese trade here.

The rows end in front of the main city square, as miniature as the whole city, with a small church.

The city is stretched along the river. Houses stand on both sides of the river, and behind them the mountain slopes rise.

Many hotels and private pensions. There are cafes and shops, in a word, the entire infrastructure of the resort town. The houses are cute. Let's say this one, overgrown with ivy.

And the most charming villa is hidden a little away from the road, behind a rocky ledge.

The series of houses along Kamenitsa is completed by the Praha Hotel, one of the best in the city. And the whole Grzhensko from "Labe" to "Praha" can be walked in 15 minutes.

Then the paths diverge. There is a hiking trail along the river (we returned to the city three hours later). To the right, the motor road leads to the village of Janov, to the left - to Mezne Louka and further to Jetřichovice, an old Saxon village.

Hiking trails in Bohemian Switzerland

Most tourists (including us) go to the town of Mezne Louka, from where hiking trails begin in the national park "Czech Switzerland" in the Grzhensko district.

Scheme of hiking routes Grzhensko

The most popular route leads to Pravcicka Brana, a unique natural arch bridge. From Mezni Louka to Pravcicka Bran, walk along the path for 70 minutes (as indicated on the map of the park) and then another 45 minutes will take the road to Grzhensko.

We're heading down a different route. First, we pass 2 km along an asphalt road. The road goes through the fields.

Rocks can be seen in the distance above the crowns of trees.

We reach the boarding house "Na Vyhlidce".

Behind the house begins a trail that leads to the river Kamenitsa.

The descent to the river is steep and winding, the path winding among the rocks and trees.

Mountain serpentine ends with an exit to the bridge.

We have reached the bottom of the gorge. From the bridge, the canyon looks spectacular: vertical rock walls are opposite each other. How long did the water cut through the rocks to make its way!

Behind the bridge, the path turns and goes along the coast along the rocks (and sometimes under the overhanging rocks or in a punched tunnel).

At one point, the gorge makes a sharp turn and widens. In the place of expansion there is a house, which houses a small museum dedicated to the nature of this region.

Rafting on the river Kamenitsa

And here is the pier. Near the walkways are punts painted bright green. The boat is designed for 26 persons.

We are waiting for the laggards

We load into the boat and set sail downstream.

This section of Kamenitsa is called.

The boat is driven by a boatman with a pole. He stands at the stern, rules the boat and jokes. And in one place he slowed down, pulled a stretched cable with his hand, and a waterfall fell from above the rocks. Fortunately, not on us. The waterfall did not last long, I managed to photograph the last jets.

Here and there among the rocks there were funny wooden figurines.

And behind the next turn, such rocky fingers appeared.

This is how we sailed and sailed along the Edmundov Gorge. The place is very quiet, secluded, filled with a mysterious gloomy beauty. Everything is as if from a fairy tale: silently flowing dark water, mossy stones in the riverbed, the walls of the gorge going up, knotty tree roots clinging to the rocks, dark green crowns reflected in the water.

The only time our privacy was violated was when a boat passed us against the current. Yes, pushing a boat against the current with a sixth is not an easy task.

Finally the pier appeared. We disembarked and continued down the path along the river.

I thought that our walk through the protected forest had come to an end, but the way to Grzhensko took another 30-40 minutes. The gorge went on and on, we all stretched out along the path, there were few people, only closer to Grzhensko people began to meet.

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