Crimea the cave city of Eski Kermen. The cave city of Eski-Kermen is an ancient fortress on the top of the Crimean plateau. Church of the Assumption - old frescoes
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There are regions that are rich in historical, architectural and cultural values. And there is a region that is valuable in itself - this is Crimea. In fact, the Crimean Peninsula is a continuous nature reserve. It is difficult to take a dozen steps here without bumping into a historical monument. One of these is Eski-Kermen, a city-bastion carved into the rocks.
Eski-Kermen Citadel: birth, greatness and death
Actually, rocky towns are not uncommon for Crimea. Shrouded in secrets, permeated with mysticism, they, it seems, still keep the shadows of their inhabitants - Taurians, Alans, Goths and Hellenes, Scythians and Sarmatians. This is especially felt in Eski-Kermen, one of the largest cave cities.
The fortress on a flat, high plateau well protected by rocks was built, apparently, by the Byzantines at the beginning of the 6th century to protect Chersonesos-Korsun. However, this fortification hardly played a large strategic role, and some time later, historians say, it was captured by the Khazars.
However, the citadel on the plateau gradually expanded, and with it the city grew. At the beginning of the 12th century, according to archaeologists, the Old Fortress (this is what the Crimean Tatar word "Eski-Kermen" means) stretched over an area of 8.5 hectares and was inhabited by over two thousand people. The wide stone "tabletop" was built up by parallel residential quarters, between which carts scurried along fairly spacious streets. The remains of the cathedral pulpits convince that there was not just a priest in Eski-Kermen, but a hierarch, a bishop. In the same years, the basilica was expanded and significantly completed. Everything suggests that the city in the mountains was an important administrative center.
The settlement was surrounded by powerful natural walls, reliable gates, "exit" gates, towers, battle platforms and casemates. Remains of an irrigation system excavated in the vicinity and terraces with wild grapes prove that the economy of the area was based on agriculture. By the way, ancient vines, having fallen into the hands of Crimean breeders, have become a valuable source for new grape varieties.
Eski-Kermen cave city - Donators' temple
Several times, life in the walled city dwindled to a tiny, smoldering spark. This happened in 1299, when the troops of the fierce Nogai, who avenged his son killed in the Cafe, destroyed Eski-Kermen to the ground. Not immediately, but the city was revived after bloody vengeance. However, not for long: in 1399, after the assault of the Horde of Khan Edigey, life in the cave settlement finally turned to stone, merging with the silent rocks.
"Eski-Kermen" - grottoes and tombs
Today the Old Fortress is a museum under heaven. First, here you can see the caves, which in the early Middle Ages were filled with donkeys and goats, pithos and amphoras with wine, slings and bows, sheep skins and tiles. There are almost 350 such grottoes in the ghost town.
Residential buildings on sites excavated by archaeologists date back to a later period. They were two-story, strong, and their inhabitants, as now established, perished from the fire. In some basements, the researchers found skeletons, including children - apparently, it was here that the townspeople were hiding, hoping to survive the scorching element.
Secondly, you can wander around the ruins of the basilica, built at the same time as the first fortification. It was rectangular, strict in shape, with three faceted, semicircular apses (protrusions below the main building) and was divided into three parts - naves. The Polish envoy and cartographer Martin Bronevsky, who visited this place in 1578, wrote that the basilica was decorated with marble and serpentine columns. It must be said that the basilica "died" before the settlement - its main part turned into a cemetery, and a chapel was built in one of the naves.
Tourists are interested in a siege well with its attributes - a steep and deep staircase of 84 steps, a 20-meter tunnel and a mine where water was accumulated in case of a long blockade. The water was supplied by a source "intercepted" by the builders of fortifications. This well is a real artifact: nothing like it was found in any Byzantine fortress built in the Crimea to protect it from nomads.
"Eski-Kermen" - altars and frescoes
Finally, the ruins of sanctuaries beckon guests of Crimea. For example, the Church of the Three Horsemen, carved into the stone ridge at the base of the fortress. This sacred building has two entrances, the space between which was illuminated from two windows. There are two graves in the temple - a small one, which must be for children, and a larger one. Near them there is a recess for candlesticks and a recess with a cross.
Everything suggests that these burials were the subject of worship. At the "adult" grave, you can see the fresco that gave the name to the temple: George the Victorious, killing the serpent, and two horsemen on the left and right, one of them with a child behind. Historians believe that the fresco was created in honor of some kind of battle - so important for the townspeople that some of the participants in it, probably dead, were ranked among the saints. In any case, both the temple and the fresco were created in the period - the end of the XII century - when the Tatars plunged into the Crimea, like hungry wolves into a deer straying from the herd.
Another temple, more ancient, was carved at the same time as the first fortification at the main gate. It had three entrances, an honorary bishop's chair and a baptismal font. Tombs have been carved into the floor. The shape of the building is so unusual and asymmetrical that it has puzzled more than one generation of Crimean residents: the Tatars, for example, called this place the "Judgment Seat", apparently believing that the building served not only for prayers, but also for other purposes. Unfortunately, the frescoes that decorated the walls of this temple have not survived. But the painting of another church, the Assumption, although partially, is still visible. Residents of Eski-Kermen set up this chapel ... in a former winery. More precisely: at first it was a grain pit, then grapes were pressed here ... And then the premises were adapted for a church.
This, of course, is not all that reveals the ancient city to curious tourists. Towers, lookouts, stairs carved into limestone, loopholes and embrasures ... Here every stone, every piece of ancient ceramics bewitches and whispers its true story - about the old times and the former people.
Valley of Givers
The valley of Cherkez-Kermen is located very close to the dead city, where there was another temple - Donators. Built between the 12th and 14th centuries, it excites the mind with its preserved fresco depicting the liturgy of the Holy Grail. The "name" of the church is obviously connected with its patrons, because "donor" in Latin means "donor". The well-known Soviet historian Nikolai Repnikov, who carried out excavations in the Crimea, believed that the Donator Church, together with the valley and the fortress, were once a single complex. The same scientist described the numerous frescoes for which the temple was famous - all of them, according to him, were distinguished by the highest skill, in which the old school of Constantinople shone through. Alas, almost nothing remained of the drawings, but on the place where the shrine once stood, today sometimes liturgies are held.
Internet cave
At the "foot" of Eski-Kermen there is a camp site of the same name. This is a whole ensemble of comfortable and, at the same time, exotic rest: the hotel offers rooms of varying comfort, and for lovers of exclusive - a cave room in the medieval style. Inside the estate there is also a parking lot, a cafe with home cooking, a zoo corner where children are willing to play, a sauna, a tent camp, horses for walks and ponds for fishing. To go fishing on the territory of the base "from dawn to dusk", that is, all day, you need to pay 1000 rubles. The catch, and the ponds are abundant in carp, silver carp and crucian carp, are allowed to be personally grilled on the grill and eaten in a gazebo in the fresh air. A little higher than the fortress, in the mountains, a small, clean lake sparkles, where you can also try your luck with a fishing rod in your hands (200 rubles per day of fishing).
Eski-Kermen on the map of Crimea
Road to ghost town
From Simferopol to the tourist base, as well as to Eski-Kermen itself, they get as follows:
- by regular bus Simferopol-Zalesnoe to the village of Krasny Mak;
- by regular bus Simferopol-Kholmovka to the final stop or to Red Poppy;
- by train Simferopol-Sevastopol to the village of Front (station "1509 km"), and from there - by bus 45 to Krasny Poppy or Kholmovka.
- From the named villages, following the signs, you need to walk about 6 kilometers.
From Sevastopol you can get there:
- by train Sevastopol-Simferopol to Front, and then - by the above-mentioned bus route 45.
To get from Yalta like this:
to Red Poppy - by regular bus Yalta-Bakhchisarai, and then on foot, according to road signs.
Departure from Bakhchisarai:
- by bus Bakhchisarai-Zalesnoe to Red Poppy;
- by bus Bakhchisarai-Kholmovka to the final destination or to Red Poppy.
The easiest way, of course, is to go to these protected places by car: from Bakhchisarai, you need to get to the village of Tankovy (this is about 14 kilometers), and then drive to Red Poppy (another 4 kilometers).
Before Krasny Poppy you need to turn right and drive up to the village of Kholmovka. Before him - turn left, approach the quarry, turn right and proceed to the hedge of the farm. At this point, you should turn left again, into the valley, from which the legendary and majestic Eski-Kermen will rise towards you.
However, people who choose public transport and stomp on foot for several kilometers will not regret it for a minute: the landscapes around are so delightful that the road will seem like a journey into a fairy tale.
Cave city Eski-Kermen (Russia) - description, history, location. Exact address, phone number, website. Reviews of tourists, photos and videos.
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Cave cities form a huge layer in the history and culture of the Crimean Territory. Each of them is shrouded in many secrets and legends, each of them breathes with mysticism and centuries of life of ancient people. Among dozens of such settlements, one of the most outstanding is Eski-Kermen - a huge city where many traces of the past have been preserved. Its distinctive features are not only size, but also purpose and degree of study.
A bit of history
According to scientists, the first settlement in the area of the cave city was built in the 6th century by the Byzantines and served as a fortress. The reason for this was the ideal location, because the city stands on a rock and is surrounded by sheer walls up to 70 m high. Researchers believe that the fortress was originally small, but by the 12th century it had acquired truly impressive dimensions.
At the peak of development, the city of Eski-Kermen was inhabited by 2,000 people, but already in the 12th century it was practically destroyed by the invaders of Khan Nogai from the Golden Horde.
After the first attacks, they tried to restore the city and revive the old life in it, but a new attack - already by Khan Edigey - did not allow these plans to come true. Since then, the settlement remained abandoned for a long time, and by now it has become a popular tourist attraction.
What's interestnig
The main interest in the ancient city is the caves: firstly, there are many of them, like nowhere else, and secondly, they were used as defensive structures, barns, living quarters and cattle corrals (in other cave cities of Crimea, caves had a sacred meaning ).
Another interesting object is a 30-meter siege well. On the stairs inside it you can go down to the very bottom, where even today water collects. Archaeologists have also found a Byzantine basilica with ancient frescoes, but these, unfortunately, are rapidly deteriorating.
If you walk along the old city streets, you can see that life once was in full swing here: traces of carts carved in stone by wheels, the remains of a gate that locked the entrance to the settlement, a loophole, from where archers attacked the advancing enemy, and grain pits for storing food.
A panorama of the Chatyr-Dag plateau opens from one of the cliffs of the city.
Note that the cave city of Eski-Kermen is part of the Bakhchisarai Historical, Cultural and Archaeological Museum-Reserve. If you wish, you can order a tour of the local area on a donkey.
Practical information
The city is located in the south-west of Crimea, in the Bakhchisarai region, near the village of Kholmovka. You can get to it by bus from Kholmovka, as well as by bus or fixed-route taxi from Yalta, Sevastopol and Bakhchisarai. Web site
It is also possible to get there by car through the village of Krasny Mak. GPS coordinates: 44 ° 36'40 "N; 33 ° 44'22" E.
Ticket prices: 100 RUB - for adults, 50 RUB - for children, the excursion must be paid additionally - 100 RUB. Prices on the page are for October 2018.
Official information
Medieval walled city in the southwest. parts of the Crimea Peninsula,
14 km from Bakhchisarai and 5 km north-west
Ruins of the medieval city of Mangup-Kale
General information about Eski-Kermen (according to published sources)
The name Eski-Kermen is translated from the Crimean Tatar as "old fortress".
The territory of the city occupied an area of 8.5 hectares, being 1,040 m long and 170 m wide. Built on a table-like mountain plateau, limited by cliffs up to 30 m high. Eski-Kermen is part of the Bakhchisarai Historical and Cultural Reserve.
The city of Eski-Kermen was founded at the end of the 6th century AD. NS. as a Byzantine fortification and existed until the end of the XIV century. Little is known about the history of the city until the 10th century, since the city was a minor fortification. Although at the moment, some researchers are inclined to the version that, perhaps, the Doros fortress was located here, and not on the Leaky Cape Mangup-Kale. This is reflected in the name of the city by the Crimean Tatars: "Old Fortress". An indirect confirmation of this hypothesis is the presence of a siege well of the 6th century, with a staircase of six flights and eighty steps, with a twenty-meter corridor; this was not the case in other known fortifications of the Byzantines during the construction of a defensive line from the raids of nomads in the Middle ridge of Crimea.
From the 10th century, the city began to gradually expand and grow in importance, with the greatest flourishing in the 12th and 13th centuries, when the number of inhabitants exceeded 2000 people. At that time, a full-fledged medieval city already existed here, the plateau was built up by rectangular blocks separated by wide enough streets, along which a carriage could pass, there was a ruling bishop of the district on the territory of the city, as evidenced by the remains of a pulpit in the church at the central gate. The Basilica is being rebuilt and expanded, presumably built in the period from the end of the 4th century to the beginning of the 8th century, in the central part of the plateau.
In 1299, the city was destroyed by the Mongol troops led by the Golden Horde beklarbek Kicking and was no longer able to fully restore its former meaning. In 1399, the Mongol army, led by Edigey, the Temnik of the Golden Horde, destroyed the rebuilt fortifications and finally ravaged the city, which after that was no longer rebuilt. Only a small settlement remains in the vicinity: Cherkes-Kermen (the village of Krepkoye) located between the northern tip of Eski-Kermen and Kyz-Kule. It existed from the period of late antiquity to the early 70s. XX century.
Not far from the village of Kholmovka is the cave town of Eski-Kermen. The Byzantines built the fortress at the end of the 6th century for the defense of Chersonesos. In the 8th century, the Khazars destroyed the city, but the locals did not leave their places. Finally, the cave city of Eski-Kermen was destroyed in 1299 as a result of the raid of the Golden Horde emir Nogai, who avenged everyone and everything for the death of his beloved grandson, whom he sent to Crimea for tribute.
The original name of the city was forgotten, becauseEski-Kermen or Old Fortress- the name given by the Tatars, although no one lived in the city during their rule
The city is located 18 kilometers south-west of Bakhchisarai on a free-standing flat top with steep slopes and inaccessible cliffs. The mountain is about 300 meters high and stretches from north to south. The surface of the mountain is similar to the wing of an airplane and is 1,040 meters long and 200 meters wide at a maximum. The top of the mountain is at the southern end of the plateau.
From the north, the plateau is somewhat elongated and slightly declines closer to the north, ending in a pointed rocky cliff. In the west and east, the cave city of Eski-Kermen is limited by rocky cliffs with a height of about 30 meters. On the southern side, where the steep cliffs are of a small height, a road rises along a gentle slope, meandering, which is carved right in the rock in front of the summit. In ancient times, this part of the plateau was protected by powerful defensive walls.
Last year I visited the cave city of Chufut-Kale. This year, in the very heat, we went to conquer the cave city of Eski-Kermen. If a visit to the first one last year was combined with an excursion to the Khan's Palace in Bakhchisarai, this time the day was dedicated only to Eski-Kermen. Moreover, we traveled part of the way, about 6 km, on foot.
The route was standard - take a minibus to Artbukhta, take a sea ferry to the North side and from Nakhimov Square take a bus to the village of Krasny Mak, from where it is already on foot to get to the cave town of Eski-Kermen.
As a result of the trip, I got quite a lot of photographs, and I brought some of them into separate narratives:
Eski-Kermen was founded on a hard-to-reach plateau at the beginning of the 6th century; according to the assumption, the Scythian-Sarmatians and existed until the end of the XIV century. Its name in translation from Tatar means "Old Fortress" - it is one of the most picturesque cave cities. It is located in the southwestern part of the mountainous Crimea, 6 km south of the village of Krasny Mak, on the table mountain plateau, elongated along the axis.
The cave city of Eski-Kermen was a first-class fortress for its time. The steep cliffs are practically inaccessible, and in the upper reaches of the crevices, along which one could climb into the city, battle walls towered. The defense system included well-defended gates and exit gates, ground towers and cave casemates.
Eski-Kermen was a large center of crafts and trade, but the basis of its economy was agriculture - viticulture, horticulture, horticulture. In the vicinity of Eski-Kermen, the remains of an irrigation system, traces of terraced areas with feral vines were found. For a number of years, these vines have been studied by employees of the Crimean Agricultural Institute, trying to restore grape varieties that have lived for hundreds of years. Some of them are already used as breeding material for the development of new grape varieties.
We leave the bus, our journey begins in the village of Krasny Mak. The village is surrounded by a picturesque area: on the left is a valley with outlier mountains. For example, Uzun-Tarla - rises far to the left of the road to Eski-Kermen.
On the right is a rocky wall with outliers of Bash-Kai.
Then the road goes across the field. Although it has rained recently, the grass on the field is beginning to dry up; there is a huge number of large grasshoppers and other living creatures jumping from under their feet.
The sun bakes mercilessly, and I want to find some kind of shadow, lie down and rest until the evening in the cool under a light breeze. But this is only the beginning of the journey, there is a whole day ahead, filled with interesting adventures.
Interactive panorama of the field and the road.
But now the long road through the heat is drawing to a close, and we come to the goal of our journey. You can already see the slopes of Zangurma-Kobalar - a ridge adjacent to the cave city.
With characteristic grotto grottoes on the slopes.
And here Eski-Kermen appeared, or rather its northern extremity. The main life on it still took place in the southern part.
I found such a scheme on the Internet. We approached the city from the north (from above)
The Northern Sentinel Complex is located here. From here, the best view into the distance, as can be seen in the following photos.
Northern sentinel complex, 6th - 13th centuries
In the northern part of the Eski-Kermen plateau, there is a gate, fortified with battle platforms and casemates. Opposite it there is a small outlier rock, in which the Northern sentinel complex is located. At the foot of the outlier begins a staircase carved into the rock (2 flights, 33 steps), leading to the surface of the rock, surrounded by a wooden fence. Along the course of the stairs, there are two rooms carved into the rock: the lower one was used as a burial vault, the upper one as a sentry.
From the upper platform of the complex, the northern approaches to the city and the entire area of the foothills were visible. During the Middle Ages, the Northern sentinel complex was connected to the main massif of Eski-Kermen by wooden bridges.
In this "stone with holes" there was always a guard who guarded the approaches from the north and in case of danger had to give a signal.
At the top of the Northern Patrol Complex. South facing towards the city.
A piece of guard caves and Mount Kaya-Bash.
Our "sentinels" wave their hands from the gatehouse.
Again the view to the south - a pine tree huddled on one of the rocks on the side. And it grows hanging on a vertical rock.
Remains of a medieval tower with a gate - Kyz-Kule castle (Maiden's Tower)
It seems that the tower is nearby and can be easily and quickly reached. In fact, on Kyz-Kul, you can only climb an ancient hiking trail with steps carved into the rock from another gorge located to the west of the tower. To do this, you need to go down from the northern sentinel complex to the saddle and turn left, carefully going down a ledge, in places with traces of artificial cuts, a slope. Then, on the way, go to the former village of Krepkoy (now there are koshars here). From here, from the gorge, you can climb to the castle.
A panorama of how the north side was seen from the top of the sentinel complex. You can zoom in and out of the image.
More view of the nearby mountain
And to the valley. We came along this road.
There is a deep crevice between the Northern Sentinel Complex and the main part. And while I was photographing her, a strong wind took away and dragged down my cap, I did not even have time to pick it up. It was also useless to run after her - there was a many-meter cliff ahead. Fortunately, Valerka also noticed how she fell, he was closer to the place of the fall, on the path under the patrol complex and found her. Otherwise, I could easily have caught sunstroke.
But stop walking around the Northern Sentinel Complex, the main part is still further away. Let's walk along the path along the rocky slope
And here is one of the first cave structures. A cave made in a rock looks like this from the inside. there was a door in the place of the opening, and, probably, the window was closed by something. And a round hole in the ceiling - probably to draw out the smoke from the hearth.
The next object is what allowed the city to remain impregnable for a long time - a siege well.
Siege well, VI - IX centuries
The siege well is located in the northern part of the eastern cliff of the Eski-Kermen plateau. The structure is a staircase descent (6 flights, 84 steps), ending with a capturing gallery, which leads to a cave where there was a natural source of water. The total water supply of the well was about 75 cubic meters. Water delivery to the surface was carried out manually. Each descent march ended with a platform where the water carriers could disperse.
Apparently, the siege well was built simultaneously with the fortress in the 6th century. The researchers associate the termination of the functioning of the structure with the deliberate destruction of the well by the Khazars. The siege well was used as a source of water for the population of Eski-Kermen in the event of a long siege. In peacetime, rainwater was used, as well as water that entered the city through a ceramic water supply from the Bilderan gully.
I did not dare to go down below the guardroom (this is just one flight of stairs), further the steps were worn out, broke and more and more resembled a children's slide, along which you can easily slide down on the priest, but it is difficult to climb back. The next photo is a view from one of the caves with steps.
Part of the city with multi-level caves and stairs between them
A few more photos of the city outside
And from within
South-east again
A few more views of the city
View of the neighboring Chupak-Syrt rock through a telephoto lens.
And again stones dug up by man-made caves.
Here I decided to light up
An interesting cave resembling a hole - a hobbit's dwelling. With a round window and a round entrance. It is a pity, the entrance was blocked by a tree that grew here.
This stone was once led by a wooden bridge over an abyss. Here in that hole on the right.
Large caves were reinforced from the inside by stone columns.
Along the walls, special niches were equipped for arranging beds in them. In the rooms of the guards, the window was usually arranged at the head of such a bed.
Not all caves survived the struggle with time. This one, for example, had its roof collapsed.
North view from the southern part of Eski-Kermen. Somewhere there, at the end of the ridge, the Northern Sentinel Complex.
Here we find ourselves in an interesting structure - a cave temple. The frescoes in it were chipped off by vandals, but some of their traces are still visible.
Temple of the Assumption, XIII century
The Temple of the Assumption is located in the eastern cliff of the Eski-Kermen plateau. The complex has a rectangular shape (5.7 × 3.25 m). The altar part is located to the right of the entrance. A niche has been carved into the north-western wall, in which a wine press (rattle) is installed. There is a small water tank in the center. Remains of fresco paintings have been preserved on the walls of the temple. In the altar part there are images of the scene of the Annunciation, the baby Jesus with the angels, the Mother of God - Hodegetria. On the northeastern wall there was a stage of the Presentation, a section of the wall opposite the altar was occupied by a large composition of the Assumption.
The construction of the church dates back to the 13th century, after the death of the city, the building was apparently adapted for economic needs.
On the left side of the frame is the entrance to the temple, on the right - a mountain range.
Round hole-chimney.
The next part is the main protective and main inhabited building of the city - the complex of the Main City Gates
Complex of the Main City Gates, VI - XIII centuries
From the southern side, on the Eski-Kermen plateau, a wheel road, carved into the rock, leads to the Main City Gates, winding in three marches. The upper march of the road was fortified by proteikhism (an advanced defensive wall), from which the rocky foundation was preserved. The opening of the main gate was carved into the rock, above the gate there was a rectangular tower, from which the rock cuttings were preserved. The main street of the city began outside the gates. In the area of the wheel road and the Main City Gate, there are a number of cave structures for various purposes: battle casemates, churches, tombs.
Behind the gates, in the eastern part of the passage, there is a cave temple "Judgment". The complex has an asymmetric layout (15 × 17.5 × 2 m). Three doorways lead to the temple, provided with grooves for wooden door frames. The ceiling rests on 4 columns carved into the rock. The altar part, apparently, was painted with frescoes. The construction of the temple dates back to the XI-XII centuries, to the XIII century. the complex was connected to the chapel in the southeastern cliff of the Eski-Kermen plateau and acquired a modern look.
For many centuries, loaded carts have walked along these tracks, delivering food up and the results of artisans' labor down.
Temple "Judgment". Vitya imagined himself to be either a supreme leader or a priest and is trying to sort out the situation - who to execute and whom to pardon.
The time is already approaching evening, the last bus from the Red Poppy is leaving soon, it's time to go down. On the way, one comes across a temple of the Three Horsemen, hollowed out in a freestanding stone.
Temple of the Three Horsemen, XIII century.
The Three Horsemen Temple is located on the southeastern slope of the Eski-Kermen plateau. The church, carved into a freestanding boulder, has the shape of a trefoil (5.5 x 3.5 x 2.7 m). The altar part is separated from the rest of the room by the rocky base of the altar barrier, on which the wooden parts of the iconostasis were placed. A bench has been carved along the walls of the temple. There are 2 graves in the floor, an adult and a child. on the north wall there is a fresco depicting three horsemen with halos, cuirass and fluttering cloaks. The middle one hits the serpent with a spear. The one closest to the altar holds the figure of a boy on the horse's rump. Above the image there is an inscription in Greek: "The holy martyrs of Christ were cut and painted for the salvation of the soul and forgiveness of sins ...".
Several interpretations of the saints depicted on the fresco are known: Theodore Stratilat, Theodore Tiron and George the Victorious; George in different scenes; George and local soldiers; George, Theodore Stratilat and Dmitry Solunsky. The construction of the temple of the "three horsemen" dates back to the 13th century.
The last glance into the opposite part of the valley and move to the place where the inspection starts.
We see off a group of cyclists who arrived in the cave city almost simultaneously with us, listened to a guided tour and is now leaving.
We have to move quickly, quickly, sometimes even running, to move towards the bus. Time is close, we may not be in time. And the sun beats down only slightly weaker than at noon.
But now the familiar Red Poppy Mountains. We made it in time. The bus did not show us its tail, there was even a couple of minutes to sit and finish the supply of liquid. By the way, each of us drank about 3 liters of water during this trip.
Among all the cave cities and fortresses of Crimea, Eski-Kermen can be distinguished as the most accessible and spectacular. Easy to reach, easy to climb, pleasant and spectacular trail, beautiful views. We were there twice with children, and once we even had a mother-in-law with us. This speaks of the easy accessibility of Eski-Kermen for the smallest and adult tourists.
The Bakhchisarai region is rich not only in berries, fruits, poppy and lavender fields. It contains many cave cities, fortresses and very ancient buildings.
Eski-Kermen is a medieval walled city located 14 km from Bakhchisarai. It was founded at the end of the 6th century as a Byzantine fortification and existed for a total of 800 years.
The name is translated from the Crimean Tatar as "old fortress". The territory of the city covered an area of 8.5 hectares, being 1040 meters long and 170 meters wide.
How to get there
Approaching Eski-Kermen, in our opinion, is better from the northern part ("Dozor" on the map). Firstly, on this side there is a cafe and a trade shop, where you can take water with you before going up and have a snack after the walk. Secondly, the ticket office, which stands at the foot, does not work in the morning, so if you drive up from the northern part early in the morning, you are guaranteed to walk along Eski-Kermen for free 😋
Approaching Eski-Kermen
How we drove:
Route R-260 (Sevastopol - Bakhchisarai section) - Exit to Verkhny Sadovoe - Pirogovka - Frontovoe - Kholmovka - northern entrance to Eski-Kermen.
After Kholmovka there is a bad country road with potholes. We arrived, but it is better to go like this:
Route R-260 (Sevastopol - Bakhchisarai section) - exit to Verkhny Sadovoe - Pirogovka - Frontline - Red Poppy - northern entrance to Eski-Kermen
(You can get to Kholmovka or Red Poppy by regular bus from Bakhchisarai)
Eski-Kermen trail and surroundings
We started our way from the northern part of the complex, went around the circle and returned there. First, you will have to climb a little, about 300 meters. The ascent is steep, but not long. There will be a staircase - this place once served as a "gate" for the entrance through the northern gate. It was very convenient to reflect the enemy's attack through a narrow gap.
This is what the stairs looked like in 2016.
In 2018, the stairs on the trail to the North Observation Point have changed noticeably
Climbing the stairs, you will come to a fork - go right. In this case, you will gradually get to know the beauty of Eski-Kermen. After going around the former settlement, at the end of the path you will return along the path on the left to the same staircase.
At the Northern outpost
Eski-Kermen. Western part. Don't walk on the board, don't look at us :)
Lichen on the rocks
Eski-Kermen has cliffs up to 30 meters high in its structure, so it is dangerous to approach the edges.
